tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87418261921949006652024-03-12T21:57:38.294-04:00HAND TO KEYluisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.comBlogger68125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-77416000109174408302018-02-22T23:31:00.002-05:002018-02-22T23:31:17.920-05:00Compact Disc! Yay!<div style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "SF Optimized", system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, ".SFNSText-Regular", sans-serif; font-size: 14.000000953674316px; letter-spacing: -0.11999999731779099px; margin-bottom: 6px;">
<a data-ft="{"tn":"-U"}" data-lynx-mode="origin" data-lynx-uri="https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D_Tx6TYnPat8&h=ATNWxBTvi7FEXef_VscyIoOcTQJ74RsJ6ISw_SCZRLk5tHF212-FrTDEd-INQW_OkbAjeIJGcGusmyzTT1MEQM-cnWREKtZBeIVKD0a1Tz-bYLYs4h0n2cq76_GG7tvpf5lCbfVASvvybVyoIFMYLe1pcgWnEDAo7gAMQFaGxrHQpO4W7wtvMEDiw4ji2sZ23B-V1lzqYlqYGTHv0djyB6FHsti2ZDlPLg9GfERZQiC3iw" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tx6TYnPat8" rel="nofollow" style="color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tx6TYnPat8</a></div>
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Still today the CD technology is superb compared to most formats in terms of fidelity. The problem with most music is that the audio is dynamically compressed, noise reduced, equalized, and changed in many ways from the master tapes to try and cater to expected preferences of different listener audiences.</div>
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However, the CD is capable of much higher dynamic range than most music even contains. It is capable of incredibly low noise floo<span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline; font-family: inherit;">r (no hiss). It is fairly durable when made on high quality compact disc materials (not cheap CD-Rs). It is compact (har har). And you physically own your music. No licensing or monthly fees. It can easily be converted for portable music players if needed.</span></div>
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Why are we moving away from this format? I understand streaming and its benefits. It is a great companion to CDs. However, streaming costs money forever continually, requires (with exceptions) an internet connection (which could cost more depending on the device), suffers from much lower audio quality (although it is improving slowly), music can (and commonly does) get removed from the service, you can't stream on every device in every situation (airplane, cell dead zone, etc.). Streaming is great, but CDs are better in many ways. We can have both, but allowing streaming to take over is ruining high fidelity audio.</div>
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Then again, I'm preaching to the masses who probably care less about fidelity at all. So I digress...</div>
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luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-41048573821731002552017-11-13T23:48:00.000-05:002017-11-13T23:48:17.655-05:00New video review!Sony NWZ-A17 mp3 player review:<br />
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<a href="https://youtu.be/_ah3ADc4P1w">https://youtu.be/_ah3ADc4P1w</a>Sonluisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-4082010534283959952017-03-15T22:09:00.000-04:002017-03-15T22:09:36.121-04:00JDS Labs Element DAC/Amp ReviewA review of the JDS Labs Element DAC/Amp. This thing is one of the finest pieces of audio equipment I've used. I love everything about it.<br />
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Check it out and please subscribe and leave some comments if you have any questions or, well, comments. hehe<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFyX4-5MEazVSCq-rfy5kRwT6ORuWuVhihTnstBD3Uj311QirFH25_5YmDuqCoqU3Da6E9oJR3YbKAMPEtWwYV6y4iVGoeK5mcu0sw0t1Kck4xm9RCEcNCNiV8XGqzxrJ7eevSJdKx5o/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-03-15+at+9.08.17+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFyX4-5MEazVSCq-rfy5kRwT6ORuWuVhihTnstBD3Uj311QirFH25_5YmDuqCoqU3Da6E9oJR3YbKAMPEtWwYV6y4iVGoeK5mcu0sw0t1Kck4xm9RCEcNCNiV8XGqzxrJ7eevSJdKx5o/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-03-15+at+9.08.17+PM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a class="OWAAutoLink" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTqRWXqDf0Q" id="LPlnk569961" style="font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, 'Apple Color Emoji', 'Segoe UI Emoji', NotoColorEmoji, 'Segoe UI Symbol', 'Android Emoji', EmojiSymbols; font-size: 16px;">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTqRWXqDf0Q</a></div>
luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-13346126186983800952016-10-01T03:04:00.004-04:002016-10-01T03:05:55.121-04:00Chord Mojo DAC/Amp ReviewA review of the Chord Mojo DAC/Amp.<br />
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A great sounding portable digital audio converter and amplifier with support for a multitude of formats and dual headphone output!<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmgOeS275zw&feature=youtu.be"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-XDHCFD44OQ7VEsUCcOUBBUZkCDcI9lZhPx5z9Z_3OWmCTdupUvWMpl3nuPOJmI_5Kd2rKP1M0bpGTdC8CvFMOxztp3ndrhfASn4Qq2HjHi2y-bwYO9AtnujpGPS8LL0eJ-Qv3c1FfQ/s320/Screen+Shot+2016-10-01+at+2.03.33+AM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmgOeS275zw&feature=youtu.be">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmgOeS275zw&feature=youtu.be</a>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-30671612291196668862016-06-21T21:52:00.000-04:002016-06-21T21:52:37.988-04:00ER4 Earphone (ER4+) - Fit TutorialI've uploaded a new video showing how to get the best fit with the Etymotic style earphones. This will hopefully assist you in achieving the best seal, noise isolation, and bass response.<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajb6wmQCUDQ&feature=youtu.be"><img alt="er4 fit" border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCnxJM4l55WeyL8bO1DwTOEBArT_r9wCY8fq8YFmaNyBb-QswaDpa_L35yiK6WYRgxn-ClCYxn61x0huiBUYEtLXA7AXFO5O6cGywHDfP4LUVAFUelmBA9z1uzGoJqTb5E2umm3cM14rY/s320/Screen+Shot+2016-06-21+at+8.49.34+PM.png" title="er4 fit" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajb6wmQCUDQ&feature=youtu.be">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajb6wmQCUDQ&feature=youtu.be</a></div>
luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-79013790541295590432016-06-21T21:48:00.003-04:002016-06-21T21:48:56.190-04:00ER4SR/XR/S ReviewI've recently uploaded a new review video talking about the newest ER4 earphone models from Etymotic. They are both excellent, and I highly recommend them! Check out the review here:<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqFmrEPo9no"><img alt="er4 review" border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwLKYW5VrNUdkqrJBMLysTMb1wTEGYZn9BBLFIoWpyq_nliqQ9akmfaRmleDYmhE-KpPN-ruk1TcqmFHnchybG-AC3m4b1rprnYsBLwBObLFij-_br2UPhJcYNO1WzipzHmY8m2RtjkQ/s320/Screen+Shot+2016-06-21+at+8.46.55+PM.png" title="er4 review" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqFmrEPo9no">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqFmrEPo9no</a></div>
<br />luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-90838357354288912522015-06-09T17:48:00.002-04:002015-06-09T17:48:21.429-04:00New EP coming soon!I will be releasing a 6 song EP of my music soon in an official capacity. Please stay tuned. :-)luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-44336566869589797092014-11-16T17:56:00.000-05:002014-11-16T18:13:51.307-05:00New cover song "Destiny" by Eric Woolfson posted!New cover song "Destiny" by Eric Woolfson posted!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4doELHIyiNNiiJsuL4_Y1swoXnkqijSd7-NHFx0zJ6KkqXvEL4yEZP0R6eFdwRMF6nu5_V7aJNC3bA7fCTWog48GCNjbK9LvnntaHX4FC1yXuFdoIBPKHy1JrLS_va9FTZmSgP3i5duo/s1600/sean-destiny.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4doELHIyiNNiiJsuL4_Y1swoXnkqijSd7-NHFx0zJ6KkqXvEL4yEZP0R6eFdwRMF6nu5_V7aJNC3bA7fCTWog48GCNjbK9LvnntaHX4FC1yXuFdoIBPKHy1JrLS_va9FTZmSgP3i5duo/s1600/sean-destiny.png" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTuBDXtu-5Y&feature=youtu.be&hd=1">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTuBDXtu-5Y&feature=youtu.be&hd=1</a><br />
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This song has been one of my favorites. I have always loved a'cappella songs done well, and this is one of my favorites sung by Chris Rainbow (so good). This is a tribute to Eric Woolfson, who has been one of the greatest impacts on my musical journey through life. Him and his work as the Alan Parsons Project with Alan Parsons has given me so much from pure musical enjoyment to insights into great composition and mixing techniques.<br />
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I always like to think I have known a part of Eric by having such a deep connection with his music. As though I can feel a part of his emotions through the emotions in his songs that he conveys. As though the depth and sincerity he always had was him speaking directly to me (and you). He is greatly missed and I hope this cover has something of him in it and can serve as a tribute to him and what he meant to me and still means to me.luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-69009649905185068202014-10-18T12:16:00.000-04:002015-01-18T19:06:35.187-05:00New song "Wish I Never Met You" posted!My latest song, complete with video! Hope you like it.<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKL7vfe9h24&hd=1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfCVzhovo1Vovn_w3RtrENZafeobnyWQLCpJ0Sye2aD64nZ54qXXsD6u-YdGSd23KUFsf5QBXM1PfXnCpwz4iUHiu9DfbPognOrmLsvQevCD_olUVmSPRW-0IQREllxxoJTxx0t1FjjU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-01-18+at+6.06.00+PM.png" height="262" width="320" /></a><span id="goog_278696687"></span><span id="goog_278696688"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKL7vfe9h24&hd=1">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKL7vfe9h24&hd=1</a>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-37034096733553115432014-09-03T16:58:00.002-04:002015-01-18T19:07:42.941-05:00New song posted!Short but sweet?<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEtQbj8p6fo&hd=1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyczPpIHXxGh-EcRoaj9lxqTxi9bQ6UKXFUtsqeRyeGqnPrAoV9v4dtfZU4hFQKA0HxGMLMEu7AdRMoNlOQ90U03g9ays1oE7cSrcYHgXI9yKD7GFNtERp6aNl6voOv_Pq6LnEHwHLXlw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-09-03+at+4.57.52+PM.png" height="175" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEtQbj8p6fo&hd=1">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEtQbj8p6fo&hd=1</a>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-4843727446123051542014-07-31T00:15:00.002-04:002014-07-31T00:15:21.454-04:00Two new cover songs postedThe Jim Brickman contest is coming to a close, and I've put together two more cover videos for entries. Wish me luck! :-) Hope you enjoy the songs. Some of my favorites.<br />
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<b>Sound of Your Voice</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SO7a9mirdp0"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIVxI68VqzzYYD8ytodrfTrKb6y1QMOC0VEGt-xmQiXjynjghkN2vVftNbzzaTjVtfXquPN7-Qx4zJLmLFl8vrYpWMLpJGZzNFEMGUuGsD70cVOWJ2Qc0XjQOppnvAP3PCWqawDnld__U/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-31+at+12.12.49+AM.png" height="178" width="320" /></a><span id="goog_311402190"></span><span id="goog_311402191"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SO7a9mirdp0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SO7a9mirdp0</a><br />
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<b>Angel Eyes</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq8v-PuqI3A"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisvT23lo5WxaYH4ABR4e6nEtsFU-6zZ6PXTBg-CquPnm7bf4lIfsy5ACUMF5YYThfrkc_baLOV10blwV6G-THlWqGtuPqzNamdaY8xj-1kXzA1WGS4DVcVJpovTLFBvoasIGmZj7S0Tv4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-31+at+12.12.41+AM.png" height="173" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq8v-PuqI3A">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq8v-PuqI3A</a>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-28671283149075640642014-07-12T04:46:00.002-04:002014-07-12T04:46:57.651-04:00New piano cover "Hero's Dream" uploaded!<span style="background-color: white; color: #37404e; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">Here is a new song I'm entering into a contest. Wish me luck. :-)</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #37404e; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">Jim Brickman in the Spotlight - Hero's Dream Cover</span><br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zraq1D4GIM&feature=youtu.be&hd=1" rel="nofollow nofollow" style="background-color: white; color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zraq1D4GIM&feature=youtu.be&hd=1</a>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-56502956574969219282014-05-20T01:14:00.003-04:002014-07-08T16:47:57.923-04:00Sony MH1 - Full Driver Recable Tutorial by luisdent<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
O.K. Let's do this! Time to recable a Sony MH1 earphone...</div>
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Disclaimer: i'm not responsible if you get hurt following this tutorial. Use caution when soldering and working with tools.<br />
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*A huge thanks to sfwalcer and ZMF for all their help in getting this process down!<br />
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You'll need some basic tools, such as:<br />
- MH1 earphone<br />
- a soldering iron<br />
- vice or helping hands for soldering<br />
- solder<br />
- pliers<br />
<a name='more'></a>- 26awg wire<br />
- heatshrink<br />
- 3.5mm audio connector<br />
- butane lighter or heat gun<br />
- multimeter<br />
- electrical tape<br />
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Here's my small workbench<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjszMWo5HrPmWF3VQrk8xdDAZQLNpfoiXsy9gAWE2sKzGDqxcFRvdAUqc_Y68cazvPpjFfjmUr3CKhB-l-Xi9PYXpH80D83F0U9-e5gB03hhRWYG3AWFrv23y5KVUS8ykrLtZkIzGbc1rs/s1600/IMG_7039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjszMWo5HrPmWF3VQrk8xdDAZQLNpfoiXsy9gAWE2sKzGDqxcFRvdAUqc_Y68cazvPpjFfjmUr3CKhB-l-Xi9PYXpH80D83F0U9-e5gB03hhRWYG3AWFrv23y5KVUS8ykrLtZkIzGbc1rs/s1600/IMG_7039.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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I like to have a few work lights clamped around the work area and bounced off the wall with one direct light. This gives good visibility while you work. So let's jump right in.</div>
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Start by protecting the first earpiece you take apart with tape. I used electrical tape the first time, but pliers will easily scratch the housing through the tape. For the second pair, I used thicker gorilla tape over electrical tape. I still got a few small scratches, but it was better. This will take some experimenting to get apart without scratches. It is small, and you need a good tight grip on the housing.</div>
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So wrap some tape around the housing, but not around the stress relief rubber portion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfj-Ineb9I_v7nTMdHKW5iNxL5iEw5_RnEn_ADm03nGolM2ntGW6cgO3ti8-qrekd36wlTAbj5AVaj7PUfnO-KlG6MTPUqCol9fqx1RWFPppPjt0uzeS5fzmBJI-_eHS3bsZWBrBRIbc/s1600/IMG_7215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfj-Ineb9I_v7nTMdHKW5iNxL5iEw5_RnEn_ADm03nGolM2ntGW6cgO3ti8-qrekd36wlTAbj5AVaj7PUfnO-KlG6MTPUqCol9fqx1RWFPppPjt0uzeS5fzmBJI-_eHS3bsZWBrBRIbc/s1600/IMG_7215.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next, hold the housing tightly in place using a pair of pliers over the protective tape. You want a good solid grip, but try not to squeeze tighter than necessary to avoid as many scratches as possible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqzF9PU7um_qdxvWh3xpVsuNxF4EQ7DutNwnDKUtOQ_O801gOAAsMB4mXBJEixiq8dYwBXHr6mhrPqgXiT2DAUTILEp5lmw0z-5Gr71nga1CJxzjQx52HRJorWGHSZVc99pBPp1sjvVk/s1600/IMG_7226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqzF9PU7um_qdxvWh3xpVsuNxF4EQ7DutNwnDKUtOQ_O801gOAAsMB4mXBJEixiq8dYwBXHr6mhrPqgXiT2DAUTILEp5lmw0z-5Gr71nga1CJxzjQx52HRJorWGHSZVc99pBPp1sjvVk/s1600/IMG_7226.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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In your other hand, use something like these end-cutter pliers on the stress relief portion. You don't want to clamp on the stress relief like this though:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrSD_4EglbegY15wNM7RyNEAyfK3_TavLxum4RJrfCOEvdp7IcM8vTwjGjf8kyJ6e6J5Ck5gs3Uqt7XFdtGd9YYn311zLjvap_ikurYrexcBfF3vVLrsI-cFvTClOe5VXKzcKPFzQ73Gk/s1600/IMG_7219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrSD_4EglbegY15wNM7RyNEAyfK3_TavLxum4RJrfCOEvdp7IcM8vTwjGjf8kyJ6e6J5Ck5gs3Uqt7XFdtGd9YYn311zLjvap_ikurYrexcBfF3vVLrsI-cFvTClOe5VXKzcKPFzQ73Gk/s1600/IMG_7219.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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You want to get the fine edge of the end cutters in the groove between the housing and the stress relief as much as possible to avoid damaging the stress relief.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnx3EeOA04WXx7wfzwNO1lhkmFsQsIcv7jGu1p4kAHQqSM5fAb2fQGRjyoEOh4Vz7mpZgeMSpN2X81OZbQQjcfPc2Rl3IWCaTJiHcVH-ImoSyiW_zdZ0b_n2oJYztyEUgDTXwJZY_b4I/s1600/IMG_7225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnx3EeOA04WXx7wfzwNO1lhkmFsQsIcv7jGu1p4kAHQqSM5fAb2fQGRjyoEOh4Vz7mpZgeMSpN2X81OZbQQjcfPc2Rl3IWCaTJiHcVH-ImoSyiW_zdZ0b_n2oJYztyEUgDTXwJZY_b4I/s1600/IMG_7225.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Now start gently with a good grip and hold onto each plier and pull them straight apart from each other. I find that very gently twisting them back and forth while pulling them apart helps break the seal of the glue or bond. Be very careful here and slowly increase the pulling strength while wiggling them back and forth as though you were trying to snap a stick in two, but very very slightly and very gently. You're simply trying to break the adhesive bond and pull the tabs out.<br />
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If everything goes well, you should end up pulling the housing off like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Y0YYlWG9m_J6uFxtb646cejLYpOjmeGeLv3KjLxbEmJPWFhedIAnLB6uQc-75v8nAVS_Mldoqtv8GxDesviYusvjoZAvsvN4hcbLVxD_RyN1xyZNJR6Q9yH7iUdloJg_Kh0TD2Yu2fs/s1600/IMG_6999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Y0YYlWG9m_J6uFxtb646cejLYpOjmeGeLv3KjLxbEmJPWFhedIAnLB6uQc-75v8nAVS_Mldoqtv8GxDesviYusvjoZAvsvN4hcbLVxD_RyN1xyZNJR6Q9yH7iUdloJg_Kh0TD2Yu2fs/s1600/IMG_6999.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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And the driver should remain in the stress relief like so:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6w61XHvQ6PfD12U4xtfX0UGRQ0U4I07zR8Ifpr9_cIWd5jwcPHfHjAveqb43V88AghTH2Kj6sK3AXc74v9QB5PBo9AWi25QstCjBZLugPltbtodKq2S-BAdKfnbN8JHT4QBiojK2AIfk/s1600/IMG_6992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6w61XHvQ6PfD12U4xtfX0UGRQ0U4I07zR8Ifpr9_cIWd5jwcPHfHjAveqb43V88AghTH2Kj6sK3AXc74v9QB5PBo9AWi25QstCjBZLugPltbtodKq2S-BAdKfnbN8JHT4QBiojK2AIfk/s1600/IMG_6992.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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You don't want to pull them apart to quickly or forcefully, because you might rip the wires off of the driver terminals. If this removes the tiny contacts as well, the MH1 is no good. You want to separate them intact, so you end up with the driver still connected to the wires like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif42t5Hm41LpQ_jtRIe3dGmq7HVXQ47T63bbxVC0KF7hyphenhyphenm9BflQpVJPCaT-ufNgQRTK8ZPG69oUY5OTtCNNZUxNAY8cPt-Hi5EZ2hXYL9BQkncTBtnKQn7-agGbsf0fzcl5EXDmoAI9LM/s1600/IMG_7012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif42t5Hm41LpQ_jtRIe3dGmq7HVXQ47T63bbxVC0KF7hyphenhyphenm9BflQpVJPCaT-ufNgQRTK8ZPG69oUY5OTtCNNZUxNAY8cPt-Hi5EZ2hXYL9BQkncTBtnKQn7-agGbsf0fzcl5EXDmoAI9LM/s1600/IMG_7012.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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If you pull them apart and the driver remains in the housing, you can try to gently wiggle it out while pulling on the wires, but not hard enough to pull the wires off the board. Otherwise, just continue with the process anyway, but the soldering will be a bit more difficult as the terminals will be slightly harder to reach.</div>
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Here is an exploded view of the earphone:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFE4xr10ghg51GIRwOB7FaNTTl6rkeeyghSZTMhfrGTO1am6-faGB9GDuXqe0dElDBFszv0-yQcE35G654Uh3b38c3J2ot4eagv6TwNPQFi_cdppiqgOd9sExqNRn9NYLXqaLFvg1wIi8/s1600/IMG_7017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFE4xr10ghg51GIRwOB7FaNTTl6rkeeyghSZTMhfrGTO1am6-faGB9GDuXqe0dElDBFszv0-yQcE35G654Uh3b38c3J2ot4eagv6TwNPQFi_cdppiqgOd9sExqNRn9NYLXqaLFvg1wIi8/s1600/IMG_7017.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can see the gold curved contacts on the circuit board:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjouAx85C7jH7f-F_onYHg_qaz3jDBjh2mHoW0L7wsvAogg2o7Jma7TueIwABWjmN2ybNezrHkYCvZrsXxx8xrPzqXRT7B6JjFNvweIfyZT1Q9ePC7HXuxceUa1HFAI3ubtZFsLfoiQHC4/s1600/IMG_7022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjouAx85C7jH7f-F_onYHg_qaz3jDBjh2mHoW0L7wsvAogg2o7Jma7TueIwABWjmN2ybNezrHkYCvZrsXxx8xrPzqXRT7B6JjFNvweIfyZT1Q9ePC7HXuxceUa1HFAI3ubtZFsLfoiQHC4/s1600/IMG_7022.jpg" height="320" width="263" /></a></div>
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Here is each earpiece taken apart:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5kF_UD9h5Srkpf4GDtrilePqJcFGwvcatS9m1O-eLE8fKjRs_rPCCiri4iD-5IIgfpjPmTqe93q2c_6MJX2udk-gRoxMhhAkp2LXOglUx3-c2izEymFApXqtmVmxNNQyqlTYBwWcGXI/s1600/IMG_7206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5kF_UD9h5Srkpf4GDtrilePqJcFGwvcatS9m1O-eLE8fKjRs_rPCCiri4iD-5IIgfpjPmTqe93q2c_6MJX2udk-gRoxMhhAkp2LXOglUx3-c2izEymFApXqtmVmxNNQyqlTYBwWcGXI/s1600/IMG_7206.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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I don't have photos for the next step, but you want to place it in a vice or helping hands like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdKA2RZdaUI0rUBUTQrRFhgMUtXUte3onoKsi-xB4xae5EZqqtEfLZH5fluVn-kDafBP9xER-M7mg7pNnDheaZXxBnU2EoYDzvhzAUrVf3jntbXE74PRXw1Hdmv4i6otPViPgoudJbyg/s1600/IMG_7232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdKA2RZdaUI0rUBUTQrRFhgMUtXUte3onoKsi-xB4xae5EZqqtEfLZH5fluVn-kDafBP9xER-M7mg7pNnDheaZXxBnU2EoYDzvhzAUrVf3jntbXE74PRXw1Hdmv4i6otPViPgoudJbyg/s1600/IMG_7232.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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And then use a soldering iron to desolder the stock wires from the driver terminals. If you're not familiar with soldering, check out some videos online to learn the basics. It's pretty simple IF you have a decent soldering iron. I wouldn't attempt fine soldering with a walmart special soldering iron. You will only get frustrated and buy another soldering iron later.</div>
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Now, simply tin your soldering iron lightly, hold a wire an inch or two from the driver with one hand and touch the soldering iron to the wire/contact with your other hand. It should only take a second to heat up enough to melt, and you can gently pull it off the contact with your hand holding the wire. Removing the wires this way prevents any damage to the terminal contacts.</div>
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Next you can prepare and measure the wire for your earphone. I took the length of the longest side of the stock MH1 cable, from the connector tip to the earpiece top end and added a few inches to both sides for error correction, stripping the wires, etc. Once you measure this length, you need to cut four separate wires this long.</div>
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Start by removing any remaining materials from within the stress relief and routing two wires through each. I recommend leaving the stress relief closer to the end you will solder onto the drivers like so:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIGML9vjl3yC1d1QK7IPplGH3BydaqB26I3J5VkS7k-gw6iKtJ9lHzWgUYCn_IY-Gk38mem3XvVgr8UVVi8j2FmFiI00JdiguExaTIgFbGihjTzTH3vloZkl48MD5PwY5wXnlLy3bPcLM/s1600/IMG_7229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIGML9vjl3yC1d1QK7IPplGH3BydaqB26I3J5VkS7k-gw6iKtJ9lHzWgUYCn_IY-Gk38mem3XvVgr8UVVi8j2FmFiI00JdiguExaTIgFbGihjTzTH3vloZkl48MD5PwY5wXnlLy3bPcLM/s1600/IMG_7229.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next, strip a small portion of the wire ends. 1/4" or so is plenty. Place the four stripped wires into the vice or helping hands, stripped ends sticking out to work on. Tin your soldering iron and then place it under each wire while placing solder on the top of the wire. Let the soldering iron heat the wire from below so the solder above is absorbed into the wire, thus tinning the wire. Don't let it collect too much solder and glob on. Simply tin the wire so it changes to a shiny color and no more. This is important when you go to solder the wire to the driver. The wire ends should look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1B3XjtVUtDG4LI5sPWa7u8QfMexMVw5cg9vHmncYfLQvwz46v9SzkrQPYEmEiqsC4coAHQR9uz1e1NLyhVsQnaXto4y-ZB_qA23LfNXVsfxyEk8k630gCxcRVvMM6wK9KLddiNEQPi20/s1600/IMG_7208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1B3XjtVUtDG4LI5sPWa7u8QfMexMVw5cg9vHmncYfLQvwz46v9SzkrQPYEmEiqsC4coAHQR9uz1e1NLyhVsQnaXto4y-ZB_qA23LfNXVsfxyEk8k630gCxcRVvMM6wK9KLddiNEQPi20/s1600/IMG_7208.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, use the pliers and create a right angle bend in the tinned wire ends. The end-most part of the wire after the bend should be pretty small. This is going to join with the driver contact, which is very small. It should look similar to this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjifdLl95cs5HxW5GbasFNk_2uj45aublOoBiYdkv2Md-6qQ3VlUBKUmikHkgVF1XVtGDDthb48wjxjtxjgSmLnw5Us890OGiO-cihI1-xJaJDDD8W-dhAgHn9MxXkIaD-kwnRSxb5UVFw/s1600/IMG_7230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjifdLl95cs5HxW5GbasFNk_2uj45aublOoBiYdkv2Md-6qQ3VlUBKUmikHkgVF1XVtGDDthb48wjxjtxjgSmLnw5Us890OGiO-cihI1-xJaJDDD8W-dhAgHn9MxXkIaD-kwnRSxb5UVFw/s1600/IMG_7230.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next, place the driver body into a vice and very lightly (just a dab or two) tin your soldering iron. The goal here is going to be to join the already tinned wire to the already pre-soldered terminal contact. You'll want a small pointy soldering iron tip if possible.<br />
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Hold the wire in one hand close to the end (don't get burned), and then press it against the contact so the bent end is lying flat on the metal solder of the contact. Now gently press the tinned soldering iron to the wire so that it is pressing the wire into the contact. You should be able to get the idea from the photos below. It should melt pretty quickly and the wire should join with the existing contact solder. Remove the soldering iron and make sure to hold the wire in place for a few second until it cools. Give it a very, very gentle tug to make sure it is secured on the contact.<br />
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When finished, it should look similar to this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjwkPdABf9i8pm_R3yzdgA3UUoLfbYSRPIA0N8PV3WIwl8Hd6c-rzQsmRhincDn_Y-ZiJosGXHtWsq7MZRmvJlrtPjKMKE5gqIrc0uuC1raKtsjkOfQcgiE8Lpv2buLvoejhZgGXtHraI/s1600/IMG_7232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjwkPdABf9i8pm_R3yzdgA3UUoLfbYSRPIA0N8PV3WIwl8Hd6c-rzQsmRhincDn_Y-ZiJosGXHtWsq7MZRmvJlrtPjKMKE5gqIrc0uuC1raKtsjkOfQcgiE8Lpv2buLvoejhZgGXtHraI/s1600/IMG_7232.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mrGfqYVEn4FB8pL2uJNm9Z2D0LPWxhE03e3-bwSLmEBwCpr51_Le_ndF7Hq34dM1Z1AP-BTFOgoY2tplbg9y_EaNS2kgIhfr1RO9WqtyTNxV7YRV0XQ9XFt8SwB77W69ut7vBK7Br2c/s1600/IMG_7238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mrGfqYVEn4FB8pL2uJNm9Z2D0LPWxhE03e3-bwSLmEBwCpr51_Le_ndF7Hq34dM1Z1AP-BTFOgoY2tplbg9y_EaNS2kgIhfr1RO9WqtyTNxV7YRV0XQ9XFt8SwB77W69ut7vBK7Br2c/s1600/IMG_7238.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Believe it or not, you can now test your driver. Simply strip the other end of the two wires connected to the driver. Grab an unused 3.5mm connector and simply wrap the stripped wire ends to the connector. The positive wire should go to the tip or ring (doesn't matter which) and the negative wire should go to the sleeve.<br />
<b><br /></b><b>For the actual recabling, to identify the positive and negative terminals, hold the driver so the circuit board is facing you with the glued portion at the bottom. The left contact is the negative side and the right contact is the positive side. Remember this. It is critical.</b><br />
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Just wrap the wire to the connector enough that it makes decent contact. You can even press it against the connector contacts with your hand if you need to. Plug the connector into a music player and play some music. Hold the driver up to your ear and you should be able to hear music playing properly if it worked.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xqcHoOi9VCm6-i7HvyoXeIaIgGjBHUefzCV7X_tvGHfrn-elrZof5oKaOKSblAaideYs_tIha7kXm2dmqPwPZORbG6UQRc8PrHqd4jMWCWpDzh7Njt36TuHGOlssn1SXDDmb5ytBorA/s1600/IMG_7240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xqcHoOi9VCm6-i7HvyoXeIaIgGjBHUefzCV7X_tvGHfrn-elrZof5oKaOKSblAaideYs_tIha7kXm2dmqPwPZORbG6UQRc8PrHqd4jMWCWpDzh7Njt36TuHGOlssn1SXDDmb5ytBorA/s1600/IMG_7240.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUUWip2Jrpd732M5q7rjm73BTp4J4ja_gxSFjbaOt9Y1DzOS3alxmoFfC1LRQmH672lXqD9HAKepASusuvSxVJd0HLuq0CmVOps03QBRJH0MmMJqzEkijWliWnESYrbk7kAFyUfiEhp6o/s1600/IMG_7242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUUWip2Jrpd732M5q7rjm73BTp4J4ja_gxSFjbaOt9Y1DzOS3alxmoFfC1LRQmH672lXqD9HAKepASusuvSxVJd0HLuq0CmVOps03QBRJH0MmMJqzEkijWliWnESYrbk7kAFyUfiEhp6o/s1600/IMG_7242.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Now that you know your soldering payed off and everything works, you can feed the wire through the stress relief and pull the driver closer to the stress relief opening. As it gets closer gently work the wire and driver so that it sits in the stress relief fully, as seen here:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOumF6nOSTMTSkvJ9K32XgNSKShsVHNS-q39TxK1zZt7FQTJL1UFXsJNBTMrefz6jWSN-3UuOwIozyn-shCncNspGV-esBK4ZkqOZ2ZWWN7KKyBP7nKnTG99mCQUbBQFg_iKc2PrcBYIU/s1600/IMG_7245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOumF6nOSTMTSkvJ9K32XgNSKShsVHNS-q39TxK1zZt7FQTJL1UFXsJNBTMrefz6jWSN-3UuOwIozyn-shCncNspGV-esBK4ZkqOZ2ZWWN7KKyBP7nKnTG99mCQUbBQFg_iKc2PrcBYIU/s1600/IMG_7245.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next, you can reattach the housing. Make sure the filter and foam are still in place and didn't fall out. With the housing back on the driver, slide the stress relief into the housing carefully and press them together firmly. If you were able to take them apart without much damage, you can now lay the housing with the filter facing downwards on a flat surface and press the stress relief down into the housing firmly. It should snap into place and lock like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPVHme8TfN_is1c-M30GpG7t3RwGtyd1DuSyznQkNPVEI7QSvmNtEH3v3f4SvPK7I3RQEHfCx-10QBbCQgqCMUaC9jFwHcLZoFLAM6vtZefAti8RhgEJWFXldQP4ROQYHLm99ufKMm2TM/s1600/IMG_7248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPVHme8TfN_is1c-M30GpG7t3RwGtyd1DuSyznQkNPVEI7QSvmNtEH3v3f4SvPK7I3RQEHfCx-10QBbCQgqCMUaC9jFwHcLZoFLAM6vtZefAti8RhgEJWFXldQP4ROQYHLm99ufKMm2TM/s1600/IMG_7248.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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If the tabs were damaged taking it apart, you can use superglue carefully (just a bit) on the stress relief where it goes into the housing and alternatively secure them with heatshrink afterwards if you choose. You can also test the audio again if you want at this point just in case.</div>
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Lastly, for stability, strength and sound quality, I like to inject superglue into the stress relief. Be sure to inject the exact same amount into each earpiece's stress relief to match the bass response as closely as possible. Also, be sure to only use enough to fill the stress relief without risking getting glue into the driver area. I use a small loctite super glue with a narrow pointy tip. Once I apply the glue, I hold the wires straight and centered where they exit the stress relief, and then wait for a minute for it to set. Let it dry for however long the glue requires. After it dries you can continue. This step is important, because although it might last with proper care, the only thing preventing the wire from being pulled off the driver is the solder. With the wire routed through the stress relief and the super glue in place, it adds a good amount of strength to the connection.</div>
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Now for the fun part. Twisting and braiding.<br />
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Start by anchoring the earpiece in a vice like so (rubber sides help prevent scratching):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMGuh7EH8D5tT-kTymiGSGSu_tS4EsY4Ah7Bny0bYuCnpwE47PkRgPIJdVHwC1Ior9BcKFpDzk0rYiW7ZxiXoGPp_4R17QLaJVHQZ4bSw_o3z14BDUuJTnVMsTD4y_x6f7nWTsuJBszEk/s1600/IMG_7252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMGuh7EH8D5tT-kTymiGSGSu_tS4EsY4Ah7Bny0bYuCnpwE47PkRgPIJdVHwC1Ior9BcKFpDzk0rYiW7ZxiXoGPp_4R17QLaJVHQZ4bSw_o3z14BDUuJTnVMsTD4y_x6f7nWTsuJBszEk/s1600/IMG_7252.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Next you can start twisting the wires for the upper cable portion. Again, I used the MH1's longer side as a reference and twisted the wires to that length between the earpiece and the y-split.<br />
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To twist them nicely, start by pulling the wires over and away from each other to get a nice close first twist. Then for each twist simply pass the wires over each other and then gently pull them outwards equally. You don't want this to be too tight or it won't be very flexible. It should look something like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguyHwO7B0QurlL1Vg1fuJR3YWzhe-2ChgS-MawRtLoKWVDXbU8Y0yXGPO2JQBHgfCdw5znZNLhJZiGs-91QA_w5ZOHTIuhvcC6m1DgMnTwovlejzqjnJMuObd72ogh4lSTVV2H3CAxLS4/s1600/IMG_7253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguyHwO7B0QurlL1Vg1fuJR3YWzhe-2ChgS-MawRtLoKWVDXbU8Y0yXGPO2JQBHgfCdw5znZNLhJZiGs-91QA_w5ZOHTIuhvcC6m1DgMnTwovlejzqjnJMuObd72ogh4lSTVV2H3CAxLS4/s1600/IMG_7253.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Repeat this on the other earpiece to a matching length. For nice aesthetics, I twist the wires in opposite directions on each earpiece.</div>
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<b>Now for a few CRITICAL parts... DO NOT FORGET THESE STEPS!</b></div>
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Hold the wires together (all four) and slide the heatshrink that you will use for the cord lock over the entire bundle of wires and up to the earpieces. Next, slide the heatshrink you will use for the y-split over the group of wires as well and up to where the twisted wires end (where the split will be).</div>
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<b>At this point you need to make sure you mark the wires as left and right channels with their corresponding -/+ polarity. </b>I simply tie an overhand knot at the very bottom loose end of the cables. I make up some scheme where one knot is the left channel positive and two knots is the right channel positive, with the two remaining wires having no knots, both being ground. The ground wires will be joined at the end, so it doesn't matter which channel ground it is. This is critical though, because if you forget, there is no easy way to determine which is + and - to wire the connector properly. Use whatever means necessary to identify the wires at the loose ends. You may also want to match the driver channel (left/right) to the marking on the stress relief (L/R). The actual drivers are identical, and it doesn't matter which one is left or right, as long as they are wired as such.</div>
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Cut a very very small strip of electric tape maybe 1/8" at most. As small as you can easily manage and wrap around the wires. Cut the strip of tape in a length that will wrap around the wire bundle two or three times. Now, hold everything taught and make sure the earpieces line up perfectly with each other and keep the wire straight together and then grasp the point at which the twisting ends and you wish to create the y-split. Now wrap the tape around the wires taught and hold everything together at the y-split with one hand and slide the heatshrink over the tape evenly centered. You want this heatshrink to be slightly larger than the width of the tape, so the two ends will extend slightly past the tape. This is where the split will be, and after heatshrinking the edges will grasp around the tape and prevent the heatshrink from ever loosening and sliding.</div>
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Be as precise as possible and make sure the two twisted wires are twisted nicely right up to the point where they enter the heatshrink. Next hold the wire horizontally and your hand a few inches from the centered heatshrink, without losing its place on the y-split area. Then take your lighter or heat gun and start heating up the heatshrink. I use a lighter and wave the lighter back and forth at least 6" away. I slowly move the lighter closer and continue waving it back and forth until the heatshrink starts to tighten up and shrink around the wires slowly. Once the heatshrink is tightly around all of the wires don't overdo it, you don't want to melt or char the wire jacket.</div>
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Let it cool for at least 20 seconds .You can blow on it if want to speed up the cooling process.</div>
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Next you want to place this newly heat shrunk y-split in a vice or helping hands and start braiding the lower section of the wire:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W1c-T_PoD4jbvVN7GjR2Iscbw9uJUYq9UjRwbQjkRLOBOx9AWvYD2hnyhFVZo5Mr_ROLUaNGjUuBkErKkRtZ17Fnz-wxcMwy17I1CmrtD5Hzios-dJJn_qzWoUDLFwkHZzv0-gZDFF8/s1600/IMG_7254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W1c-T_PoD4jbvVN7GjR2Iscbw9uJUYq9UjRwbQjkRLOBOx9AWvYD2hnyhFVZo5Mr_ROLUaNGjUuBkErKkRtZ17Fnz-wxcMwy17I1CmrtD5Hzios-dJJn_qzWoUDLFwkHZzv0-gZDFF8/s1600/IMG_7254.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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I use a simple four strand round braid. I'll try to describe it as best as possible, but you can look for tutorials online if needed.</div>
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Hold the four wires laid in a flat configuration. You can do the process over or under, it doesn't matter. I start by taking the leftmost wire and passing it over the second and third wire. Then wrap it over and around the third wire and then back underneath the third wire so that it ends up between the second and third wire. Then do the exact same thing with the rightmost wire going the opposite direction and keep alternating each side over and over. That's it.</div>
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It should like something like this as you do it:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRm0iyfVaMKDlq3wq-3qUeSLlTU30ZNRk6iK3Zc7A1s9fuejQR0YYG_1nllgLRlNj32UgimeyFJA-WHFNGtB_t3rfrw8E4UQGLHUNh7ivnwI3g2ADuFYug3r8I4_co3Dt4gp6gYocDdnc/s1600/IMG_7255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRm0iyfVaMKDlq3wq-3qUeSLlTU30ZNRk6iK3Zc7A1s9fuejQR0YYG_1nllgLRlNj32UgimeyFJA-WHFNGtB_t3rfrw8E4UQGLHUNh7ivnwI3g2ADuFYug3r8I4_co3Dt4gp6gYocDdnc/s1600/IMG_7255.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Once the braid reaches the length you desire, I like to wrap some electrical tape around the end of the braid where the connector will go. Now you're ready to finish the cable. You can strip and tin the wires as you did earlier. I like to make sure to either mark the wires with a sharpie marker using dashes to indicate channels or create different bends in the tinned wire ends to keep track of which wire is which. You could also just connect the wires to the connector terminals one by one as you strip them. Just make sure you connect them properly.<br />
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The ground wires go to the larger sleeve of the connector. The left channel + wire goes to the tip connector (the terminal contact that usually comes out of the middle of the back of the connector). The right channel + wire goes to the ring of the connector (usually the terminal contact coming out of the side of the back of the connector). This can be tricky to get the braid right up to where the connector ends. You can strip a small section of the wires and then re-braid up to the stripped end again if needed. It should look like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7NdHzah_64SU5orOPOM63ho8bzpEIhZ99a403q_qiMCptewM9j58mTWfzsNTKumivBlM2UeFoxdcHcCd8rz3-PUxmrKpx-NB2n6_2EWuu4Rcm6UTQxGYRhyCn34onDQL2-wc3EbJDUo/s1600/IMG_7260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7NdHzah_64SU5orOPOM63ho8bzpEIhZ99a403q_qiMCptewM9j58mTWfzsNTKumivBlM2UeFoxdcHcCd8rz3-PUxmrKpx-NB2n6_2EWuu4Rcm6UTQxGYRhyCn34onDQL2-wc3EbJDUo/s1600/IMG_7260.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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And bent if needed:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCFfX7CGQXKVUUV3aaFuNa2f2RYNSEJqODNx2xIi6pPdTqhg0n_9_6XLIUMmfi8nsO59z9Myd2xs_fFCunfITXOTnG-gNzbDUN7Xp8W3__BD0d_FNrzS5BL2f2T6E972EDdSp4bP_NXY/s1600/IMG_7261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCFfX7CGQXKVUUV3aaFuNa2f2RYNSEJqODNx2xIi6pPdTqhg0n_9_6XLIUMmfi8nsO59z9Myd2xs_fFCunfITXOTnG-gNzbDUN7Xp8W3__BD0d_FNrzS5BL2f2T6E972EDdSp4bP_NXY/s1600/IMG_7261.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now this is another critical step. Make sure to put the back of the connector over the wires beyond the braid in the correct orientation to be screwed into the connector tip later (threads pointing away from the earpieces). Then slide the plastic protector over the wires if you have one, followed by a small piece of heatshrink we will use as added strength and protection for the clamping to the connector. This should be just wide enough or slightly wider than the crimping arms of the connector, unless you want it to extend out of the connector for that appearance and/or strain relief.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FGVuarUxJwLBmJDYbkgUaNFVxikZJzywCPemlbeE-uvZysW4RMBZidv81n6ySW5UBi6XlmHPKGIYTZ9ZNp-4DCjAnAFFtxd7y6aSef7b1NKJe_lGc4eRPskJSK_FFC0LamZUupC4vB0/s1600/IMG_7259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FGVuarUxJwLBmJDYbkgUaNFVxikZJzywCPemlbeE-uvZysW4RMBZidv81n6ySW5UBi6XlmHPKGIYTZ9ZNp-4DCjAnAFFtxd7y6aSef7b1NKJe_lGc4eRPskJSK_FFC0LamZUupC4vB0/s1600/IMG_7259.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once these are all in place, slide them past where the braid ends and run the stripped ends of the wires into the connector terminals as described above. Then tin your soldering iron and solder the tinned wires to the connector terminals. You should place the soldering iron so the it wedges between the wire and the connector terminal and makes contact with both equally. When it heats add some solder between them. As it heats up and melts, the solder should flow into the gap and bond the two, and then you can then remove the soldering iron and make sure things cool and that the soldering joint looks smooth and shiny. If it looks dull and messy you may want to redo it.</div>
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A shiny smooth solder joint is a good connection. There should be a smooth connection between the solder and the wire. It shouldn't look like the solder is pressing against the wire, but instead bonded with the wire.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVk6pxWl9ot2mSMN3hryYT2hk8YbnFktKQrYyKIwAR__ypoYlDxSTe5nZjmV8PkE_n4Vacnq_slzxPXAi9NTyn9nk3jbDboUAxstmEHXlkhWrqMVpo8pf3AoniPT22ZqMvH_zp8ycdnaE/s1600/IMG_7257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVk6pxWl9ot2mSMN3hryYT2hk8YbnFktKQrYyKIwAR__ypoYlDxSTe5nZjmV8PkE_n4Vacnq_slzxPXAi9NTyn9nk3jbDboUAxstmEHXlkhWrqMVpo8pf3AoniPT22ZqMvH_zp8ycdnaE/s1600/IMG_7257.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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You may need to use some solder cutters or something similar to remove any small bulky solder from the bottom of the ground sleeve otherwise it won't screw together properly. It should look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjt19JFRyVahthZBnMf1wp08ShMbUwLNay1_LLq1vjNq_VS5DdD2jSnWZgz-XkuFdLarU_jYZHCf0cqPvO1aV_cUps6jCqA3WntKoKFmBCJ7zMIXp6Qd3PIPi7ne0wkmwAyuXNKOpqsc4/s1600/IMG_7256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjt19JFRyVahthZBnMf1wp08ShMbUwLNay1_LLq1vjNq_VS5DdD2jSnWZgz-XkuFdLarU_jYZHCf0cqPvO1aV_cUps6jCqA3WntKoKFmBCJ7zMIXp6Qd3PIPi7ne0wkmwAyuXNKOpqsc4/s1600/IMG_7256.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMhnlj8VN9XpeFCRgQLbxc1HrmlQH6XneB4mSZ7plLhwIWjfc3Rzp47EOZmhhwYuz9UlFTuGu917GGHnWhl8IoUdD18N63uRRlGUmvTAiQcs0plzDZm_HhtPPK25iI9OZiYfMIS79QCs/s1600/IMG_7262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMhnlj8VN9XpeFCRgQLbxc1HrmlQH6XneB4mSZ7plLhwIWjfc3Rzp47EOZmhhwYuz9UlFTuGu917GGHnWhl8IoUdD18N63uRRlGUmvTAiQcs0plzDZm_HhtPPK25iI9OZiYfMIS79QCs/s1600/IMG_7262.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikWKiNnttCDqN-w5WQNErYL_ND62M_DyeTwbfhu1LsyXe6OJq3zShbh-YuIGfzjAK8nVJ1Izmg_3FZ2QWl44c8mcV8QkCQdrJjZdFgOJGq_FklsN-AbATl1Sx4llvUPnzH1Z4ceN6cs7w/s1600/IMG_7263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikWKiNnttCDqN-w5WQNErYL_ND62M_DyeTwbfhu1LsyXe6OJq3zShbh-YuIGfzjAK8nVJ1Izmg_3FZ2QWl44c8mcV8QkCQdrJjZdFgOJGq_FklsN-AbATl1Sx4llvUPnzH1Z4ceN6cs7w/s1600/IMG_7263.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTlxpCSK8sGFrVy_bsU6Nk1AyCyZm8QqDiMnb3cUom8aer_XeED68XxCa-UMgycWp5O41i7NbPktANCGTusFYqxlIny0-toELBl_0M1XzfwYnWcsuXeVnRdQFKWP2QN7FtULblkdVPb5o/s1600/IMG_7264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTlxpCSK8sGFrVy_bsU6Nk1AyCyZm8QqDiMnb3cUom8aer_XeED68XxCa-UMgycWp5O41i7NbPktANCGTusFYqxlIny0-toELBl_0M1XzfwYnWcsuXeVnRdQFKWP2QN7FtULblkdVPb5o/s1600/IMG_7264.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnB8bKZuJ8f8LwErNL7tc7Yev8MmqyifXkUYihrj891kUEvoUs9v28ZHAcQTWV_uJFMlw1QrVl86u_XDescPHK-0E-X9D5mHL8_7zFMY-dl5K935rA_nB_kW7yBZsLiw_2WT8mY-1J3s/s1600/IMG_7265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnB8bKZuJ8f8LwErNL7tc7Yev8MmqyifXkUYihrj891kUEvoUs9v28ZHAcQTWV_uJFMlw1QrVl86u_XDescPHK-0E-X9D5mHL8_7zFMY-dl5K935rA_nB_kW7yBZsLiw_2WT8mY-1J3s/s1600/IMG_7265.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, slide the small heatshrink piece up so that it covers the wires where the clamp will grab them. This is important, because you don't want the clamp to break into the wires and cause problems, and it also adds pulling strength to the connector in case it gets snagged and yanked, as the clamp can more tightly grab the wires if the heatshrink is around them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrTMPjVNTm4rY3KxUNTXiRD0lpaRF7nglvrTzfby73NdQROm4lvnhgwvxvMbNr58Zp8Drha83NPzvVOnePbXeCO84ohaCcpUAHz08aKUVXRZUPb4M1oCn5dePQ1NGdqBeBDCJ60tOK_Us/s1600/IMG_7266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrTMPjVNTm4rY3KxUNTXiRD0lpaRF7nglvrTzfby73NdQROm4lvnhgwvxvMbNr58Zp8Drha83NPzvVOnePbXeCO84ohaCcpUAHz08aKUVXRZUPb4M1oCn5dePQ1NGdqBeBDCJ60tOK_Us/s1600/IMG_7266.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then heat the heatshrink with the lighter, as before, to snug it up around the wires in place as seen in the photo. If you get the heatshrink with the right length and position you can either have the heatshrinkn not be visible outside of the connector, or you can have a bit protruding to act as a small stress relief depending on the flexibility of your heatshrink (thin walled heatshrink works for this, thick walled or adhesive heatshrink is a bit stiff for this). I try to get the heatshrink to line up as closely as possible to the exit hole of the connector with a very small amount protruding if any. I find it looks the most professional.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_ttP6X4hcW2ESa6GHAUO-ExA8iowvyEh0Mj_m25siRZaFcTlkoFtYua2C0CHbovKNYTXKSydYn8EQO4oZMChGPWDt0EHlnARg0j_K1jNZj-q8q2PVV5C6U0FoO009t5ootxEmZReQbg/s1600/IMG_7267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_ttP6X4hcW2ESa6GHAUO-ExA8iowvyEh0Mj_m25siRZaFcTlkoFtYua2C0CHbovKNYTXKSydYn8EQO4oZMChGPWDt0EHlnARg0j_K1jNZj-q8q2PVV5C6U0FoO009t5ootxEmZReQbg/s1600/IMG_7267.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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With a neutrik connector, to make this step easier, I like to use a pair of small pliers to bend the very very tip of the arrow shaped side of the clamp. This makes it bend into place easier. After bending the tip, use the pliers to clamp it down against the wire heatshrink. If you position the pliers well you can get it to fold down nicely and then repeat on the opposite side to close the clamp all the way.</div>
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Don't put a crazy amount of force onto the clamp, but make sure it is nice and tight and snug, so that if the wires are pulled the heatshrink takes the strain instead of the soldered contacts.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUNWqRf3wkupmsMJEvP4zXgVq4gFj7LHnDVOz0BIdrpfisDaEcl457ZnVuda4HmRCwqnRBSzYI-7995yRur8grDc8mW2eW4LZ86Ld0YE-m-vItl4h08wMs6Us_Xgjo-INlbc_9ducsT7k/s1600/IMG_7268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUNWqRf3wkupmsMJEvP4zXgVq4gFj7LHnDVOz0BIdrpfisDaEcl457ZnVuda4HmRCwqnRBSzYI-7995yRur8grDc8mW2eW4LZ86Ld0YE-m-vItl4h08wMs6Us_Xgjo-INlbc_9ducsT7k/s1600/IMG_7268.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjymeFRaGlkKp8yjpVWQz55CLZ3KVDttiWDilxvhcl3zJqxEs-jxSTZx_-qQiJaYIQpd78U9PmRDiZ4ieHm-qS-aMH2GKBC7mVzgxgUkMT2e2FFk7aWjmx5rl4KSpV3LDklgl_MrkYuUt8/s1600/IMG_7270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjymeFRaGlkKp8yjpVWQz55CLZ3KVDttiWDilxvhcl3zJqxEs-jxSTZx_-qQiJaYIQpd78U9PmRDiZ4ieHm-qS-aMH2GKBC7mVzgxgUkMT2e2FFk7aWjmx5rl4KSpV3LDklgl_MrkYuUt8/s1600/IMG_7270.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Slide the plastic protector over the terminals:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZMETpsdTokz6auhjiZhEHKt-7jA90xhN96TmfhftAaecZbRbEkpGFXTRhtW-OhQxbGr_CVRCnKsZucpZi-sSB6TG3doMEOtkvMkxxngZxDR9O9cjhyKV-F9BfJQ-SNykdRN7l2nBJ-E/s1600/IMG_7271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZMETpsdTokz6auhjiZhEHKt-7jA90xhN96TmfhftAaecZbRbEkpGFXTRhtW-OhQxbGr_CVRCnKsZucpZi-sSB6TG3doMEOtkvMkxxngZxDR9O9cjhyKV-F9BfJQ-SNykdRN7l2nBJ-E/s1600/IMG_7271.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Slide the back of the connector over the plastic protector and screw it to the tip:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_yNWR3Rs7XhHaDhiHXYuqdlJHI6QPwEHgJOVcd9v3FcQcX0MW8oTpDDtIFbcmV7BBlKmcmHqGvf0PbkriQetmMUh3_ne0c147fLoaNVpulaKTsWCRQ9JYVIeYcKM8nryltxmE_nd_UU/s1600/IMG_7272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_yNWR3Rs7XhHaDhiHXYuqdlJHI6QPwEHgJOVcd9v3FcQcX0MW8oTpDDtIFbcmV7BBlKmcmHqGvf0PbkriQetmMUh3_ne0c147fLoaNVpulaKTsWCRQ9JYVIeYcKM8nryltxmE_nd_UU/s1600/IMG_7272.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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And now you have a recabled MH1! Test it out and enjoy some music for all your efforts!</div>
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Here is the finished product:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeZPG6Nz5XHO-OsSygOdNegF60c1WP6g5ihtZBOiVj7SOOMjFpmLYYgPNq7vlyX3h5ot_dXhVP1SNhmQ_ZGVWC2_b4xsveC04UZd8Mf9RyfCmPefENsM9AkzhDByXx9I7NooxB1Lvtmbc/s1600/IMG_7281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeZPG6Nz5XHO-OsSygOdNegF60c1WP6g5ihtZBOiVj7SOOMjFpmLYYgPNq7vlyX3h5ot_dXhVP1SNhmQ_ZGVWC2_b4xsveC04UZd8Mf9RyfCmPefENsM9AkzhDByXx9I7NooxB1Lvtmbc/s1600/IMG_7281.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEdM4Ir7jQEL5hbH7xEjM8I7YJsd-B50FpUwG51YPjGVU0g1J2PPvYSuu5Zw6sgCdoMp2jqhKNT53AJXUEuAlKdYzHrcpWyGrh3kzIFaAaKVRN5v4bgzLwgOhkS6_q0qbzY4R6wi9uOxc/s1600/IMG_7273_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEdM4Ir7jQEL5hbH7xEjM8I7YJsd-B50FpUwG51YPjGVU0g1J2PPvYSuu5Zw6sgCdoMp2jqhKNT53AJXUEuAlKdYzHrcpWyGrh3kzIFaAaKVRN5v4bgzLwgOhkS6_q0qbzY4R6wi9uOxc/s1600/IMG_7273_2.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfRxp07r3QbwhkvEc-WZMcDRmKZ-0Rp_apIZ0vFOr70UhzY-lCwwuI_18_kIZR3hUaRvFWuVnxq8uA5mWaR6__OlMR9y5x6_iooeUTakqjnlw4obF71BYiOIjlVLqR_k8K2M_gKiAo7A/s1600/IMG_7279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfRxp07r3QbwhkvEc-WZMcDRmKZ-0Rp_apIZ0vFOr70UhzY-lCwwuI_18_kIZR3hUaRvFWuVnxq8uA5mWaR6__OlMR9y5x6_iooeUTakqjnlw4obF71BYiOIjlVLqR_k8K2M_gKiAo7A/s1600/IMG_7279.jpg" height="253" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1lY3E-0lHMHIg1njl3-bMIZa9ZmHovFCYib02tRiqtBEZBI-bbgrWlf-XzYr93ydI6S4x5LH9hxfBLZ4e7U6KZ8qOCBSZctWEjfIktEnhfF5QaFS0XiG1XzuKUlSj4GDhkLIV3K8TrI/s1600/IMG_7290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1lY3E-0lHMHIg1njl3-bMIZa9ZmHovFCYib02tRiqtBEZBI-bbgrWlf-XzYr93ydI6S4x5LH9hxfBLZ4e7U6KZ8qOCBSZctWEjfIktEnhfF5QaFS0XiG1XzuKUlSj4GDhkLIV3K8TrI/s1600/IMG_7290.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is the braid spacing that I prefer. This gives the wire a nice soft, flexible feel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3N4Ndv4B7gVcNFRFIpln2BWJfSDg7WppNXC6ljY4nzmxc96bUQDIWA25ER2UnzoxC7UVInjdAsot6kS94v5NHqTWdBaTJd40tMxFVqEypHTsdELZojUmNzUB7EkDqcx6Wr66-eYEmHDg/s1600/IMG_7135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3N4Ndv4B7gVcNFRFIpln2BWJfSDg7WppNXC6ljY4nzmxc96bUQDIWA25ER2UnzoxC7UVInjdAsot6kS94v5NHqTWdBaTJd40tMxFVqEypHTsdELZojUmNzUB7EkDqcx6Wr66-eYEmHDg/s1600/IMG_7135.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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And a finished black recable as well:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-qJaTKlalbIrXPigiE2f_G7mtwFipGpJLMON27FrO_PNG5aHSIWq0_2L7Rq2rtSVjdZlQJekoJ4WitkfDfr2cvFLSH9o3gXFNIkkWXWTHBWapIEyB1NqOkrChs8-TR5RJ2bkmvwwRbqo/s1600/IMG_7109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-qJaTKlalbIrXPigiE2f_G7mtwFipGpJLMON27FrO_PNG5aHSIWq0_2L7Rq2rtSVjdZlQJekoJ4WitkfDfr2cvFLSH9o3gXFNIkkWXWTHBWapIEyB1NqOkrChs8-TR5RJ2bkmvwwRbqo/s1600/IMG_7109.jpg" height="313" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you have any questions or comments please let me know below.</div>
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And check out my video headphone reviews as well at <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/dentreviews">www.youtube.com/dentreviews</a></div>
<br />luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-78614406366911753742014-04-25T20:23:00.001-04:002014-07-08T16:49:44.298-04:00John Denver - The RCA Albums Collection Sound Review<span style="background-color: #fcfcff; color: #141414; font-family: inherit; line-height: 20px;">So here we go. For the first comparison coming up I'll review the album Back Home Again. I just bought the original CD on ebay and I have had the 2005 remaster for a while now. I'm ripping the RCA collection version as we speak.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fcfcff; color: #141414; font-family: inherit; line-height: 20px;">Anyhow, I am comparing the original and the remaster at the moment and I'm both disappointed and surprised at the same time. The original CD has all the dynamics I knew I remembered the songs having. The new CD is definitely not bad, and compared to new CD mastering in general it isn't very compressed. However, it is not as open and doesn't breath as much as the original CD. So for dynamics the original wins hands down. However, holy cow, the remaster is cleaner and then some.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: #fcfcff; color: #141414; line-height: 20px;">There are blurps and durps all over the old CD. The remaster only has a few that they probably couldn't eliminate very easily if at all. However, the remaster sounds newer and less like an old worn tape. Also, the remaster has a very noticeably wider and more balanced stereo mix. The old CD has a sort of strange hollow sounds sometimes, and things almost sound halfway mono. The new CD is wider and more realistic in terms of imaging. So much so, I 'm finding it hard to listen to some songs on the original CD when comparing. But the new CD is a bit more "in your face" or forward. Things don't sound as far away and spacious, which I sort of liked about the original. This is probably due to the compression and EQ applied. Things sound fuller in frequency and more even in dynamics, which makes reverb trails not sound so deep. So they're both a mixed bag. However, neither are bad and neither are amazing. But both are amazing, because of the songs and content. And really thy both sound good for the style of music in general.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fcfcff; color: #141414; line-height: 20px;">Good news. The rhymes and reasons CD is identical to the remaster I have, which I think was a 2000-something year remaster. This is good in my opinion, because I found this a very excellent mastering. I also have a Japanese import version of this CD, and it is better than the US, but only but the very slightest margin, and some people might even find the opposite is true depending on their preferences of warmth vs. "cold" accuracy. But even then, the difference is so small only the most critical audiophiles would probably even hear it. In essence they're the same basic mastering. The Japanese might have used a double speed mastering process and slightly less compression. Needless to say the collection version is identical to the US remaster and is very good. Granted, I haven't heard the true original recording.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fcfcff; color: #141414; font-family: inherit; line-height: 20px;">However, there is no obvious noise reduction. Things are clear and distinct. Basses and everything are tight and punchy (as far as john denver goes. ;P ) There is no dynamic compression either really (maybe 2% compared to the japanese version, but audibly almost non existent). So in my book this is an audiophile grade john denver release.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fcfcff; color: #141414; line-height: 20px;">More to come as I listen and compare. Stay tuned!...</span></span>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-26299925537939568342014-04-23T23:05:00.002-04:002014-07-08T16:42:55.140-04:00Sony MH1 Recable Update<div id="yui_3_10_0_1_1398308480892_1000" style="padding: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A quick update on my recable tutorial. I found out how to open the MH1 housing without damaging it or the stress relief! Thank to ZMF for the tip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here's what it looks like opened up:</span></div>
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<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089833/" id="yui_3_10_0_1_1398308480892_1008" style="color: #22229c; text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="AppleMark" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1089833" src="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089833/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" data-type="61" id="yui_3_10_0_1_1398308480892_1007" style="border: 1px solid rgb(208, 208, 208); height: auto !important; margin: 0px 1px 1px 0px; max-width: 100% !important; padding: 1px; width: 350px;" /></span></a></div>
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<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089834/" style="color: #22229c; text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="AppleMark" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1089834" src="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089834/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" data-type="61" style="border: 1px solid rgb(208, 208, 208); height: auto !important; margin: 0px 1px 1px 0px; max-width: 100% !important; padding: 1px; width: 350px;" /></span></a></div>
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<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089835/" style="color: #22229c; text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="AppleMark" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1089835" src="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089835/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" data-type="61" style="border: 1px solid rgb(208, 208, 208); height: auto !important; margin: 0px 1px 1px 0px; max-width: 100% !important; padding: 1px; width: 350px;" /></span></a></div>
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<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089836/" style="color: #22229c; text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="AppleMark" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1089836" src="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1089836/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" data-type="61" style="border: 1px solid rgb(208, 208, 208); height: auto !important; margin: 0px 1px 1px 0px; max-width: 100% !important; padding: 1px; width: 350px;" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I still need to put it back together with the new cables, but it is looking promising. Here is what I did to get them open. I used a pair of pliers like these</span></div>
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<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1090060/" id="yui_3_10_0_1_1398308480892_1032" style="color: #22229c; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1090060" src="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1090060/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" data-type="61" id="yui_3_10_0_1_1398308480892_1031" style="border: 1px solid rgb(208, 208, 208); height: auto !important; margin: 0px 1px 1px 0px; max-width: 100% !important; padding: 1px; width: 350px;" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"> for grip to hold the housing and then a pair of end cutter type pliers like these</span></div>
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<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1090061/" style="color: #ff4400;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1090061" src="http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1090061/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" data-type="61" style="border: 1px solid rgb(208, 208, 208); height: auto !important; margin: 0px 1px 1px 0px; max-width: 100% !important; padding: 1px; width: 350px;" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">to pull the stress relief off. I place the fine edge of the end cutter inside the groove that separates the housing and stress relief material as much as possible (right in the groove). I then hold the housing tightly in my left hand and pull them apart using my right hand with end cutters. I turn it back and forth very gently as I pulled them apart to try and loosen things (not a screwing motion, more of a wiggle). It seemed like it was never going to come off, but I just kept doing it and it finally came off cleanly. :-)</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Stay tuned. More updates to come...</span></div>
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luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-89606487367575144692014-04-10T19:52:00.001-04:002014-07-08T16:44:19.680-04:00Sony MH1 Re-cable Tutorial<b>UPDATE</b>: Newer re-cable tutorial is being developed that includes soldering straight to the drivers! (more stable and professional looking). Please look for the new post once it posts soon.<br />
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I promised some people over at an audio forum that I'd make a tutorial on how to re-cable the Sony MH1 earphones. Sorry for the long wait, but here we go...<br />
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<i>(Note: This is an incomplete article. See below.)</i><br />
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Before explaining the process, some people might be thinking, why would you want to re-cable an earphone? There are a number of reasons, and the MH1 seems to have them all. It is one amazing earphone connected to one horrible cable. First, they are designed to be worn behind the neck. This allows you to have the microphone close to your voice and gives you the ability to remove them from your ears and let them rest on your chest (nice during a workout).<br />
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However, even still, the flat design of the cable make them a little unwieldily. It also makes them very difficult to wear over the ear if you wanted to. This is important, because they transmit cable vibrations into noise in your ears very very easily. Wearing them over the ears almost completely eliminates this. The included shirt clip helps noise, but doesn't eliminate it. I find wearing them in front of you with the cables run around the ears is doable if you're careful, but not ideal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNt5ja0Be3cNqJLO4saVp3-i76sRKtJ39ufxrJogMY2j4dUG5yhlGAmVKhJA_mCUExcjL5NsTA4A2gJbVC3cqcM5ltVOqfbEEsIC2orORwHk4mZ7uZdqceNHOGOUpuRgbRUD_idrg7T0/s1600/over+ear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNt5ja0Be3cNqJLO4saVp3-i76sRKtJ39ufxrJogMY2j4dUG5yhlGAmVKhJA_mCUExcjL5NsTA4A2gJbVC3cqcM5ltVOqfbEEsIC2orORwHk4mZ7uZdqceNHOGOUpuRgbRUD_idrg7T0/s1600/over+ear.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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Finally, the cable is a royal pain to wrap for storage. The uneven y-sply of the cable along with the remote controls and mic section make it hard to simply wrap up and put in a smaller case. So, what are we to do? Re-cable them of course!<br />
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The following tutorial will replace the cable all the way up to the strain relief of the housings of the earphones. I've seen people replace the cable right into the housing itself, but that would require more effort and more likelihood of damage. However, it also might be that the connections last longer. I'm not sure. I'll update this tutorial if I end up trying that method. Otherwise, onward we go.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmyqtJFuwirB29KPGU9DXuCjjZxQQ1lRJqL_XShB-zSYvMAnJhCaD_dP-sa182PYtp8FNJ8uY_Z03Uscbp3JtEpL4hyT6i-cIjMRF7ctAodc3qLaeGNu4YUvTPiy2C_JV5rlb4tDX-1CI/s1600/1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmyqtJFuwirB29KPGU9DXuCjjZxQQ1lRJqL_XShB-zSYvMAnJhCaD_dP-sa182PYtp8FNJ8uY_Z03Uscbp3JtEpL4hyT6i-cIjMRF7ctAodc3qLaeGNu4YUvTPiy2C_JV5rlb4tDX-1CI/s1600/1.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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This tutorial will assume you have some basic knowledge of elementary electronics and how to use a soldering iron and multimeter. I will still describe how to use these tools for this tutorial, but that is not a replacement for proper training or safety. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to your earphones or yourself by the use of this tutorial or if you burn your house down. Proceed with that knowledge. :-P<br />
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First, here is the list of items and tools you will need:<br />
<ul>
<li>Pair of Sony MH1 Earphones</li>
<li>Soldering Iron or Station (preferably high quality temperature controlled)</li>
<li>Solder (preferably Kester 245 or similar 63/37 or so mix)</li>
<li>Digital Multimeter (analog is o.k. too)</li>
<li>Butane Lighter (other lighters may work)</li>
<li>Sharp knife/Exacto/Razor</li>
<li>Electrical Tape</li>
<li>Heatshrink Tubing</li>
<li>Roll of 24-28 gauge wire (I used 24 awg)</li>
<li>Small Gauge Wire Stripper</li>
<li>Neutrik 3.5mm Right-Angle Plug (NTP3RC or other preferred plug<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">)</span></span></li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8QZpMMVkSU_jLoC53BmB86LQR3LjixoR3-Rc1xSfzpUpcxVyj3gS4HDoDl5pPJB2lMzbBGEsYuu3XvD6tnnsRVsYjaDyuIII1rE3SD6t0rXHX_t5WBLrXLsUGbgjn0rX0KGvw4roq7U/s1600/parts.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8QZpMMVkSU_jLoC53BmB86LQR3LjixoR3-Rc1xSfzpUpcxVyj3gS4HDoDl5pPJB2lMzbBGEsYuu3XvD6tnnsRVsYjaDyuIII1rE3SD6t0rXHX_t5WBLrXLsUGbgjn0rX0KGvw4roq7U/s1600/parts.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Some tools and an alternative straight plug (Neutrik NYS231)</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiyMB3DCWHd_-u2BIEW6MbxUsDeYecqlbdOEK78iv4d225JJJBAo4bFwrdximFiz0giWJ_8xjkmLWI0ldG3UvjFXupjG25jEdFabqbGQvWhgPblLkpPiqxTzl32AsmHZJRnDOtvR9gSw/s1600/2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiyMB3DCWHd_-u2BIEW6MbxUsDeYecqlbdOEK78iv4d225JJJBAo4bFwrdximFiz0giWJ_8xjkmLWI0ldG3UvjFXupjG25jEdFabqbGQvWhgPblLkpPiqxTzl32AsmHZJRnDOtvR9gSw/s1600/2.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>$7 roll of 24awg speaker wire from local hardware store</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5mZsrVtYnmp_9DaggOcUJPafZdEflD7a0AJg0gPkyPUdtO-U4zJd1GMzRtTI2hkHSQUyWHoj4US8akrlnMiFbxKY9TOPTJbxu5s1uaiMocL_P4aAE6WfO5nAZy2zWw_Ry6h3YE3RnEo/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5mZsrVtYnmp_9DaggOcUJPafZdEflD7a0AJg0gPkyPUdtO-U4zJd1GMzRtTI2hkHSQUyWHoj4US8akrlnMiFbxKY9TOPTJbxu5s1uaiMocL_P4aAE6WfO5nAZy2zWw_Ry6h3YE3RnEo/s1600/3.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Neutrik NTP3RC (exploded view)</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggfp-3IAE6bd5Fybg1-HEQUljINT_SgApzhtOcbYNU_VswYRj4RW-vX1eLDPjnKZfiHBADFHuWgSp22CB5cz53kSwX40LQ22Bt8RRYsdUbiui3E-hTLCpB4tfZGWwJJdpPm_X0YyNd7oo/s1600/4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggfp-3IAE6bd5Fybg1-HEQUljINT_SgApzhtOcbYNU_VswYRj4RW-vX1eLDPjnKZfiHBADFHuWgSp22CB5cz53kSwX40LQ22Bt8RRYsdUbiui3E-hTLCpB4tfZGWwJJdpPm_X0YyNd7oo/s1600/4.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Hakko FX888D Soldering Iron (very nice, temperature controlled)</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-neZqX2QUaZWe2ixPNd7s2vE_Ngv4Bxqm46Nu8UCSq7LbHnn-KtKM7AhHe88jssrvW0WRgBtd6tLyzylYg-gTlNHXr4zLNWkTD6btZ7lMd4fzU-fAn7I94p-WhYI9zaLdpnkSSg0-q0k/s1600/5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-neZqX2QUaZWe2ixPNd7s2vE_Ngv4Bxqm46Nu8UCSq7LbHnn-KtKM7AhHe88jssrvW0WRgBtd6tLyzylYg-gTlNHXr4zLNWkTD6btZ7lMd4fzU-fAn7I94p-WhYI9zaLdpnkSSg0-q0k/s1600/5.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Cheap digital multimeter (works great!)</i></div>
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I found the necessary items for this project at the following prices:<br />
<ul>
<li>$20.00 Sony MH1 Earphones (amazon.com)</li>
<li>$3.50 Neutrik 3.5 plug</li>
<li>$7.00 50' roll of 24 AWG speaker wire</li>
<li>$3.00 Pack of assorted heatshrink tubing</li>
<li><br /></li>
<li>Total: $33.50</li>
<li>Cost to re-cable: $13.50</li>
</ul>
The first thing you should do it practice the process. To do this, I cut the cable of the MH1 well below the area where I ultimately would make the final cut. This way, I was able to slice and cut, solder and test, all without risking ruining the whole process by making a mistake with only .5 inches of cable to work with. You can simply follow the basics of stripping and soldering the wires in this tutorial with the portion of the cable you cut off until you feel confident in making the final modifications.<br />
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I opted to make the entire cable first and then join that to the small cable I left coming out of the strain relief of the housing. To make the initial cable, you need to unroll a length of wire that is roughly five times the length of cable you plan on having for your earphones. This is because, depending on how you braid the cable, you will need four total wires connecting the parts of the earphones (two per driver = four) and the rest accounts for the loss from braiding (very minimal), stripping and slight room for error as you can always cut off a small length before finalizing the cable, whereas you can't easily add more length after the fact. This is all from memory, so double check everything as you do it and do what makes sense in your situation.<br />
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Next I chose to start by soldering my wires to the Neutrik plug. This allows you to get a tight braid into the connector while also providing a small anchor for the braiding. To do so, take apart the plug and set out all the pieces. For my cable I decided to color code each channel - silver wire for left channel, copper wire for right channel. You need to make sure that you solder the cables to the correct terminals. The tip or center post of the plug is the left channel. The ring or smaller outer post is the right channel and the larger outer post is the ground. If you want to color code the wires, you need one of each color wire to the tip and ring posts and the remaining two different colored wires both to the ground post. Either way:<br />
<ul>
<li>Tip = Left Channel</li>
<li>Ring = Right Channel</li>
<li>Sleeve = Ground</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6USNjuaDBnhU_OvP0OMvUmw4ntumQnxzWVVu3xZEFQcSuG85RuTxJZr6UXWJo4tqQZZb48GA0dK5PvbSToGeNTbM5I9ZSICiA22J2cI6oh83bFxTaagXB5RUfcTVlSCtDpWK4nrlXoik/s1600/trs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6USNjuaDBnhU_OvP0OMvUmw4ntumQnxzWVVu3xZEFQcSuG85RuTxJZr6UXWJo4tqQZZb48GA0dK5PvbSToGeNTbM5I9ZSICiA22J2cI6oh83bFxTaagXB5RUfcTVlSCtDpWK4nrlXoik/s1600/trs.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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<i>Sorry for the poor image quality</i></div>
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Start by using a pair of wire strippers to strip away a short length of the wire sheath. Maybe half an inch. Not much. Once all the wires are stripped, you need to put them through the rear part of the Neutrik plug. Don't forget this. Also, one more thing before you continue; Don't forget to put the wires through the rear part of the Neutrik plug. Don't say I didn't remind you. ;) You need to do this so you will be able to screw it onto the plug after it is soldered. If you're using a straight Neutrik plug don't forget to also feed the plastic insulator piece over the wires after the rear piece. Next, you can place the wires in a vice or "helping hands" or ghetto soldering contraption like mine (I've since built my own helping hands) to prepare for soldering. Leave the ends sticking out so you can "tin" them.</div>
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For those new to soldering, a few tips. Pun intended. Always keep the soldering iron tip tinned with solder. Don't let it sit without solder on the tip. This is bad. Just touch some solder to the tip as your iron is heating up and keep touching the solder to it until some melts onto the tip. Once it is melting onto the tip you want to keep the tip clean now and then as you solder by wiping it off on a slightly damp sponge or copper sponge cleaner and then add solder to the tip again. Also, only leave the iron turned on as long as you need it. If you do these things the tip won't oxidize (turn black). When that happens it won't allow solder to glob onto the tip any more and that's no good. So, now that the wires are being held with the ends sticking out, you can touch the flat side of your tinned soldering iron tip to the stripped portion of the wires on one side while pressing some solder against the opposite side of the wires. Let the tip heat the wires, don't try to rub solder onto the wires. As you do this the wires will heat up and the solder on the other side should be absorbed into the wires. Your wires are now tinned. This makes joining the components easier later.</div>
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Now that your wires are ready, you can feed the wires through the posts on the Neutrik plug with the orientation as described before. I like to bend the protruding wire a bit to keep it from sliding out of a post while you're soldering. Sorry for the lack of soldering photos, but it's hard to solder and take photos at the same time. Next, with the plug in the vice and the wires run through each appropriate post and slightly bent, place the soldering iron (tinned of course) on one side of one of the protruding wires. Make sure to have the tip wedged against the wire as well as the post so it is contacting both metals. Now place some solder on the opposite side of the wire also pressing it against both the wire and post. As the solder melts you can feed a little bit by pressing it into the hole where the wire protrudes. You don't need much. Just enough to fill the small opening around the wire. When you're done, remove the iron and the solder. You don't want to keep the iron on the post for too long. These plugs are usually rated for a certain temperature for only about 10 seconds on average. Any longer and you risk damaging the plug.</div>
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Once you've soldered each wire, use a pair of wire cutters and cut off the excess wire above where the solder has bonded the wire and post together. Once all of the wires have been soldered and cut, you can slide the plastic insulator over the wires and posts if you are using the straight plug. Next, put together the Neutrik plug. The right angle plug has a few plastic piece that you need to situate per the instructions that should have come with it. You will want to slide the main plastic piece over the post area and run the wires along the inside of this piece. Then place the smaller plastic piece on the other side of the wires and slide the rear piece onto the plug and screw it tight. If everything is together properly, screwing the plug together should cause the wires to be gripped in the plastic pieces so that it is held tight. If the wires don't fit well or it doesn't screw together easily, you can remove the small breakaway tab on the plastic piece and/or shave some of each side of the plastic to make room for the wires more comfortably. If you don't have a multimeter, at this point you should label each wire on the open end with tape as to which channel/ground it is. I just marked the wire sheathing with a sharpie using one dash for left, two for right and three for ground.</div>
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Once the plug is complete, you can place the finished plug in the vice with the wires facing you. Now you need to braid the wires. For the bottom of the cable, which is where we are starting, you need to do a four wire round braid. Once you reach the part where the wires split to each separate channel you can simply twist the wires. I measured the point at which I wanted the split by comparing my favorite earphones and using them as a reference. I placed a small piece of tape at that point so I knew when to stop braiding. The braiding is simple once you know the pattern, but for the life of me I could never recover from a messed up braid easily, so don't mess up. :-P</div>
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The method I used to do the braid is as follows. Start with the four wires spread apart a bit sideways. It doesn't matter which color you start with (unless you want a certain pattern), because you can arrange the wires at the split when you finish the braid. Now with the wires spread out, hold the left two wires in your left hand and the right two wires in your right hand. Start by passing the right-most wire underneath the two wires next to it and then wrap it around the middle wire. In other words, if the wires are labeled 1 2 3 and 4 from left to right, take wire 4 and run it underneath wires 2 and 3 and then wrap it over the top of wire 2 so that it ends up between wires 2 and 3. Essentially it now becomes wire 3 and the process starts again from the opposite side. Wrap wire 1 underneath wires 2 and 3 and than wrap it over the top of wire 3 and it should end up between wires 2 and 3. This wire now becomes wire 2 essentially, and repeat over and over switching sides each time.</div>
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I like to keep the braid snug but not tight. Too tight and the wire won't seem as flexible. Too loose and the braid can become messy. Once you have braided the cable to the point where it will split, you can neatly wrap some electric tape around the point where the split will be. Just a bit and no wider than the width of the tape itself. Perhaps a two wraps or so. This provides something to keep the cable together nicely and for the heat shrink to grip to keep it from shifting. Next, you want to slide some heat shrink tubing over the open end of the wires. I chose a size that was a bit larger than the four wires but not much and a bit wider than the width of the electric tape. Slide it down over the electric tape so each side of the tubing evenly extends over the tape. Take a heat gun or butane lighter and heat the heat shrink by waving the lighter back and forth from a few inches away. Start by waving the lighter quickly back and forth so you don't melt anything or overdo it. Start slowing down the waving motion until you start to see the heat shrink starting to shrink. As it shrinks you can rotate around and heat each side evenly. Once they heat shrink is evenly shrunk let it cool for 20 seconds before touching it. It should have shrunk so that the ends of the heat shrink are a little tighter past each end of the tape it covered. This will lock it in place, as heat shrink can and will usually slide over time otherwise.</div>
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No you can gently place the y-split section you just made into a vice or something to hold it. At this point you can use the labels you made or test the wires with a multimeter to determine which wires to route to which side. Set your multimeter to continuity mode (a little diode symbol) and touch one probe to the tip of the plug and then touch the other probe to each open wire until you find which generates a tone on the multimeter.</div>
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<b>...This post in a work in progress, sorry for the long delay. I'm currently working on a better, more secure recable method directly to the driver. I will complete it as soon as I can. Hang in there! :-)</b></div>
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<br />luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-49319515702026809452014-03-26T20:21:00.001-04:002014-03-27T22:50:20.174-04:00New song "Old and Wise"<span style="background-color: white; color: #37404e; font-family: inherit; line-height: 18px;">Check out our new covers version of Old and Wise by the Alan Parsons Project:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYIc0_CzisCY9Eku3aINEoyceLoAXrJX8_f3T_SohJpPLb9puvtOuELRJWT2mt4LhINFOzMjngj9ZuxLzRDBaQSY-XKeLUgdSnziLUt3PSuOx63pQKZh-ZZ-qlv5XtVD4ZIyNF4-xiV8w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-27+at+10.40.45+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYIc0_CzisCY9Eku3aINEoyceLoAXrJX8_f3T_SohJpPLb9puvtOuELRJWT2mt4LhINFOzMjngj9ZuxLzRDBaQSY-XKeLUgdSnziLUt3PSuOx63pQKZh-ZZ-qlv5XtVD4ZIyNF4-xiV8w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-27+at+10.40.45+PM.png" height="177" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ME5-xcfB4-o&hd=1" rel="nofollow nofollow" style="background-color: white; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: inherit;">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ME5-xcfB4-o&hd=1</span></a><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #37404e; line-height: 18px;">This was a collaboration with some friends from other countries! </span><i class="_4-k1 img sp_69naua sx_26ce8f" style="background-color: white; background-image: url(https://fbstatic-a.akamaihd.net/rsrc.php/v2/yS/r/XAAPG4eQChT.png); background-position: -153px -799px; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: auto; color: #37404e; display: inline-block; height: 16px; line-height: 18px; vertical-align: -3px; width: 16px;"></i></span>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-71714594436611221062014-03-21T00:32:00.001-04:002014-07-08T16:50:04.564-04:00My Sony EX85LP story and custom EQ<span style="font-family: inherit;">Throughout my experience testing and using earphones, I've found more and more that I can't live without using equalization to flatten the response as best as possible. Finding a very neutral earphone that doesn't require any EQ is quite a challenge. There are a few very nice earphones that have excellent frequency responses and overall quality. However, I haven't found a single example of an earphone that I have been satisfied with using no EQ whatsoever. Some are closer than others.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">One of my all time favorites is the Etymotic ER4S. It has a very linear response overall, but lacks the lowest bass region, namely the sub bass below say 50-80hz. Things drop off quickly here and the sound becomes what some people describe as thin or light. There are also a few very small peaks in the mid treble and treble areas. As small as they are, once you hear an earphone without peaks, it's hard to go back to listening with them.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The PFE112 is another example. Without EQ they sound exceptionally detailed and coherent. The overall response is fairly neutral up to about 1khz. But as the ER4S lacks sub bass, the PFE112 had extra treble. There are a few peaks in the treble that add a noticeable rasp in a lot of material. Luckily, these peaks can be tamed with EQ, and the PFE112 turns into a very nice earphone. The one area it fails though is with distortion. The distortion levels are just at the point where they are slightly audible. At least in the sense that EQ will only get them so smooth and clear, before reaching a detail threshold. There always seems to be a level of micro detail depth that remains veiled. I still highly recommend these earphones and would gladly take them over some of the most expensive earphones out there, even with the distortion, because of their excellent response and easy EQ-ability. However, I am always on the search for the perfect earphone, whether it exists or not.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The TDK BA200 is another fine earphone, as is the Sony MH1. With a single bass cut EQ point, the MH1 turns into a very reference sounding earphone. But I'm here to talk about another Sony wonder. Actually, my first "serious" earphone at the time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Sony EX85LP.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhd5uGmOcP74-JiBJmQMlpKDGOSuDdw13lrAKCEUKiZv_lZtR2ZKvpmcBDhYRWsFBNJxud4s9Srh77ijxaWJt991Bno6MQvn0f7NORaZQMxMigT2n91-D1n7C602swegajuY6JZF5l1-8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-21+at+12.18.59+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhd5uGmOcP74-JiBJmQMlpKDGOSuDdw13lrAKCEUKiZv_lZtR2ZKvpmcBDhYRWsFBNJxud4s9Srh77ijxaWJt991Bno6MQvn0f7NORaZQMxMigT2n91-D1n7C602swegajuY6JZF5l1-8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-21+at+12.18.59+AM.png" height="292" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Those in the earphone community will probably scoff at this point, as this is now a budget earphone that typically sells for $20-40 on amazon or ebay. However, I paid around $80 for it new quite a few years back. I was highly impressed by it's overall quality. At the time I liked the overly bassy response, as I felt it portrayed speaker-like bass better than most. And considering the bass, the treble details were surprisingly comfortable and detailed, albeit a little warm. This warmth and lack of super airy treble actually started me on my search for a better earphone, which led to a search for an even better earphone than that, and so on and so on. Now they sound bloated and muffled to my ears. Ha.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Yet here I am today, having the had the opportunity to try some of the most highly regarded universal earphones on the market; The Westone 4R, Sennheiser IE800, Audeo Phonak PFE232, Shure 535, FitEar F111, etc., etc. And what do I find? They all require EQ to sound their best, or even to sound near flat. Some much more than others, despite their price. And a flat response is what I'm after. Target curves and graphs and all that fun stuff are for another post, needless to say that I prefer a flat response similar to the Olive-Welti curve. So why am I telling you all of this? Because of the Sony EX85LP.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">After applying EQ to even the most expensive earphones, I have found that some respond better than others. The ER4S handles EQ superbly, while the PFE112 indeed handles EQ very well to achieve a pretty flat response, but the bass can only go so far, before it is obvious that more doesn't necessarily mean better. It starts to show that is is simply physically incapable of more than a certain degree of bass without simply not sounding right. Luckily, I don't prefer any more bass than they can produce, nonetheless there is still the distortion. EQ can only push an earphone as far as it's specs allow in this regard as well. You can't equalize away any distortion, nor can you equalize away problems with noise isolation, etc. However, in my personal experience, if these other specification are all in check, there isn't much that EQ can't do for the most part.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">An ER4S with a few minor EQ points is a veritable beast to be reckoned with. However, for some they aren't particularly comfortable or preferable in every situation, and they have a certain type of sound presentation most people might describe as in-the-head or having a small soundstage. However, they are my maximum isolation, reference monitors. The PFE112 have been my goto all around earphones. But lately the distortion has been starting to irritate me, keeping me wanting for that last bit of resolution. The MH1 do a great job, and I highly recommend them, but for me personally, I find the insertion depth to be inconsistent each time I use them. I spend more time fitting them properly than I'd like. In comes the EX85LP.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfXTVpRbfHEfs6jB3oQ0_rqbZ0pyrAvgOwGfq0cZwmM5MEE8EpG5_RR49citVJtL0ojvsqm2R5Cw2i_jwGi5452Y5rjT2pNIb350CtCcHGKzdjib_p-fKMZP8tTfqnnzkfVq14dqhW-w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-21+at+12.19.31+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfXTVpRbfHEfs6jB3oQ0_rqbZ0pyrAvgOwGfq0cZwmM5MEE8EpG5_RR49citVJtL0ojvsqm2R5Cw2i_jwGi5452Y5rjT2pNIb350CtCcHGKzdjib_p-fKMZP8tTfqnnzkfVq14dqhW-w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-21+at+12.19.31+AM.png" height="240" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ironically, these were the first major earphone purchase for me, and also ironically, these are still one of the most capable earphones I have ever heard. What a bargain! Upon first listen, for those familiar with earphones that are technically more neutral, the EX85LP will appear overly bassy, and not particularly reference or accurate in the treble, despite this they sound soothing in a way. Anyhow, checking the specs and measurements over at the Rin Choi's excellent blog, you will find very low distortion levels, and no major deficiency in frequency extension.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://rinchoi.blogspot.com/2012/04/sony-mdr-ex85.html">http://rinchoi.blogspot.com/2012/04/sony-mdr-ex85.html</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">However, the stock frequency response is definitely on the bassier, warmer side of things. With Rin's graph as a starting point, and some listening and comparing with other earphones, I have generated what I consider an EQ setting that greatly improves their accuracy. So much so, I was shocked the first time I really listened to them after applying the final EQ. The low distortion allows very detailed micro resolution and depth, and once the response peaks and troughs are rectified, they sound incredibly open and smooth and flat.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Keep in mind, everyone's ears are different, and there are different acoustic properties of the ear canal that can change from one person to another. However, a person's ear acoustics can affect an earphone whether it is flat or not, and this eq should bring the response closer to a flat graphed response. I recommend trying it for a while, and see if it works for you. They give the more expensive earphones a good run for their money. I'd say if you don't mind using EQ, they are up there with the MH1 in terms of value, and easily compete with much more expensive earphones. They may not have that ultra smooth response of the ER4S, but nor do they cost $300. And they have a fairly nice large sound that remains relaxing once EQ is applied.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">These settings are for any parametric EQ that allows precise manual entry, such as Accudio for IOS or AUNbandEQ for Mac OSX or any of the high quality free Windows or Linux EQ apps as well. You will need to precut the gain by 8db to account for the highest boost point. As this is for digital EQ, the quality of boosting vs. cutting is the same as long as the precut matches the highest boost point. And generating a corrective EQ based on the response's problem areas is much easier than subtracting everything else (geeky EQ stuff). Without further ado, here are the settings.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sony EX85LP EQ</span></b><br />
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<td align="LEFT" height="20" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><b><span style="font-family: Optima;">Hz</span></b></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="70" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="font-family: Optima;">70</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="1310" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="font-family: Optima;">1310</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="2450" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="font-family: Optima;">2450</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="4560" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="font-family: Optima;">4560</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="6800" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="font-family: Optima;">6800</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="8740" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="font-family: Optima;">8740</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="14650" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="font-family: Optima;">14650</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="17590" valign="MIDDLE" width="46"><span style="color: black; font-family: Optima;">17590</span></td>
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<td align="LEFT" height="20" valign="MIDDLE"><b><span style="font-family: Optima;">dB</span></b></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="-3" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">-5</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="-1.2" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">-1.2</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="7.8" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">7.8</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="-5.5" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">-5.5</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="-8.8" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">-8.8</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="6.1" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">6.1</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="-10.7" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">-10.7</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="14" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="color: black; font-family: Optima;">14</span></td>
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<td align="LEFT" height="20" valign="MIDDLE"><b><span style="font-family: Optima;">BW</span></b></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="4.75" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">4.75</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="0.6" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">0.6</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="0.8" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">0.8</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="0.4" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">0.4</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="0.28" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">0.28</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="1" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">1</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="0.4" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">0.4</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="1" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="color: black; font-family: Optima;">1</span></td>
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<td align="LEFT" height="20" valign="MIDDLE"><b><span style="font-family: Optima;">Q</span></b></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="0.2" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">0.2</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="2.4" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">2.4</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="1.8" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">1.8</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="3.6" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">3.6</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="5.1" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">5.1</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="1.4" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">1.4</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="3.6" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="font-family: Optima;">3.6</span></td>
<td align="LEFT" sdnum="1033;" sdval="1.4" valign="MIDDLE"><span style="color: black; font-family: Optima;">1.4</span></td>
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<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cols="9" frame="VOID" rules="NONE"><colgroup><col width="37"></col><col width="44"></col><col width="46"></col><col width="46"></col><col width="53"></col><col width="53"></col><col width="53"></col><col width="68"></col><col width="57"></col></colgroup><tbody></tbody></table>
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<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cols="8" frame="VOID" rules="NONE"><colgroup><col width="46"></col><col width="50"></col><col width="46"></col><col width="48"></col><col width="54"></col><col width="56"></col><col width="56"></col><col width="56"></col></colgroup><tbody></tbody></table>
<i>updated 05-02-2014</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The bandwidth settings can simply be rounded to the nearest whole value if needed. If I find any improvements with the EQ, I will update these settings. As a starting point this should take the EX85LP to a new level that I didn't realize they were capable of. Never just a book by it's cover I suppose...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">If you like this EQ setting of have any questions or comments, please let me know below.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">UPDATE: I've found an even better way to EQ my earphones based on the available graphs. The updated settings above are even closer in accuracy and I highly recommend giving them a shot for a while. :-)</span></div>
luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-59009418071851519122014-02-19T02:10:00.000-05:002014-03-16T00:14:23.437-04:00Hans Zimmer remixes now on soundcloud!I've recorded some remixes for a Hans Zimmer remix contest. Check them out, and please leave some comments if you find them enjoyable!<br />
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<a href="https://soundcloud.com/sean-dentremont/sets/bleeding-fingers-contest-hans"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBdG8z5bP5P9KST1mzga3ZI_TbijdpNMsSZPDiYplOXZ-yriJ7E8002_r-u4X2f3mpbd9VGM0r3XLTkFri7dpyLrJqx7xhL3PWkYiJJGWsvElp4ebc25HSLLW5Hf4pKWUXdKpELqlzzLE/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-19+at+1.52.33+AM.png" height="320" width="319" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://soundcloud.com/sean-dentremont/sets/bleeding-fingers-contest-hans">https://soundcloud.com/sean-dentremont/sets/bleeding-fingers-contest-hans</a>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-6279951613024740232014-01-30T22:54:00.000-05:002014-07-08T16:50:24.700-04:00Etymotic ER4S Earphones sound so great, and here's my story!<div>
I just wanted to make a post on the earphones I've come to love and use as my main "phones" (Etymotic ER4S). Below you'll find my story of how and why I love the ER4S. I'll post my eq settings shortly and more info as well. You can also check out some info on these on my youtube review channel <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/dentreviews">dentReviews</a> Without further ado...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGNK0Vo4MhoCbUnKLmInUYVZ-64cI19ZinaiPNred073sNmBTacjN8LuSxBInOeU2oGBVy9aXIkIA4RID6mr2ZDIsqi8DeXNEr_Nr0jfuG9QUbMVVzw_Z8KMWcWGVk6SNjb0Q0HHOHMAc/s1600/900x900px-LL-e42e009e_Screenshot2013-08-22at10.10.57PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGNK0Vo4MhoCbUnKLmInUYVZ-64cI19ZinaiPNred073sNmBTacjN8LuSxBInOeU2oGBVy9aXIkIA4RID6mr2ZDIsqi8DeXNEr_Nr0jfuG9QUbMVVzw_Z8KMWcWGVk6SNjb0Q0HHOHMAc/s1600/900x900px-LL-e42e009e_Screenshot2013-08-22at10.10.57PM.png" height="182" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>The ER4S with added cord lock and right identifier.</i></div>
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I truly believe the er4s is the best earphone in the world so far that I've heard, and I've heard a lot from $10 to $1000 and none of them sound as good overall. Some have certain aspects that are nice. The Audeo Phonak PFE 112 is by far the most comfortable i've ever worn (and still pretty flat). The Shure 535 is almost a backwards ER4S. Great flat bass up to the mids, but rolled of treble. Although the treble roll off of the 535 is much worse than the sub bass roll off of the er4s. But still, decent bass overall for the 535. I could go on, but when I put the er4s in, eq or not, the overall sound is what I expect from overall flatness.<br />
<a name='more'></a>They are silky smooth, uber isolating and uber detailed. They aren't perfect, but they have the first place spot in my rankings. I'm amazed, because I find a good deal of $300+ earphones far inferior to the $300 ER4S. Some are nice mind you, but a lot of them are noticeably deficient. The ER4S only has two major flaws in my opinion and one slight flaw.</div>
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First, let me say that I'm using triple flange with no issue right now (not always the case), and although they need more frequent replacement I find comply foams incredible with the er4s as well. Nonetheless, compared to other iems, the ER4S are one of the worst in comfort.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMqVYcL6bPzYVKrgDJ2YMjHCuZ65IePa6pQuEVW7OHmV7ytL8N-ZU0q_PXO94kzmopOd_m6EvxCl2eOE0I1lvv9MinHQbAbdoflpPr0-rlNZEJQ-gtAK7JHjktDfFWh1VpOqXB05BnDw/s1600/900x900px-LL-2f08a510_recall-2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMqVYcL6bPzYVKrgDJ2YMjHCuZ65IePa6pQuEVW7OHmV7ytL8N-ZU0q_PXO94kzmopOd_m6EvxCl2eOE0I1lvv9MinHQbAbdoflpPr0-rlNZEJQ-gtAK7JHjktDfFWh1VpOqXB05BnDw/s1600/900x900px-LL-2f08a510_recall-2.png" height="320" width="266" /></a></div>
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<i>Very exaggerated ;-)</i></div>
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I'm not saying they are horrible, as I don't think they are. However, after wearing something like the PFE 112, the ER4S starts to feel like ancient daggers aimed at your brain.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7J_3TUVZFtOi9N6v_GYdy6_v3gNIuk9_ljCRKSpsp0geHfR77kFiq8nh1rLJwbQ8lvggg-NlUeFPcM7Ru1_oknOoVNUtRo3rxLulvPjfhR1rplcoQh27cy8uCO3FyM77dah1HsaGWfxQ/s1600/900x900px-LL-68ab68db_IMG_1683.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7J_3TUVZFtOi9N6v_GYdy6_v3gNIuk9_ljCRKSpsp0geHfR77kFiq8nh1rLJwbQ8lvggg-NlUeFPcM7Ru1_oknOoVNUtRo3rxLulvPjfhR1rplcoQh27cy8uCO3FyM77dah1HsaGWfxQ/s1600/900x900px-LL-68ab68db_IMG_1683.jpeg" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
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<i>Audeo Phonak PFE 112</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlLAAXdGE5mUdOTfWbDHuf6kK-Y2c8Wetwa6wKBGzeBmac24AIG81_K5EOgD4b93SHZ_Rmy_NobzoN5M66kVC56u8IUt_T4uVwPCH2wIem72vB0GV1g87mip5otf-z8ihe7sazqZjE0M/s1600/900x900px-LL-89818035_IMG_1390.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlLAAXdGE5mUdOTfWbDHuf6kK-Y2c8Wetwa6wKBGzeBmac24AIG81_K5EOgD4b93SHZ_Rmy_NobzoN5M66kVC56u8IUt_T4uVwPCH2wIem72vB0GV1g87mip5otf-z8ihe7sazqZjE0M/s1600/900x900px-LL-89818035_IMG_1390.jpeg" height="320" width="258" /></a></div>
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<i>Etymotic ER4S</i></div>
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Second, they have a reasonable roll off in the sub bass. Luckily, this is "much" more acceptable than a rolloff in the treble to me. Also, it isn't drastic. Yes, to me, it requires eq to make me truly happy. But then, every iem i've ever put in my ears requires a lot "more" eq to be truly satisfying. And even then, no matter how much eq I apply, none of them have ever sounded "as" good as the ER4S. That is awesome for the er4s. If you told me that I couldn't use my treble eq bands, I'd still be extremely happy. They are only a very minor improvement. The bass on the other hand I would want eq'd. But even still, I'd probably take the ER4S over almost, if not every other iem without eq.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXRl2vU7jXUbsmUmK4z-zcNnFfCqI2dhr7Wd27sCduR3Ml8eb30Tv3fNLV-Lrtb9mLhPFbduVG2V4Dv8fRIQwqXGTlXL3L8Trsem4KYfy16bgxj6LTzKzILS3AEI2uTiq1VBfnQjBS9c/s1600/900x900px-LL-381225d4_IMG_2627.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXRl2vU7jXUbsmUmK4z-zcNnFfCqI2dhr7Wd27sCduR3Ml8eb30Tv3fNLV-Lrtb9mLhPFbduVG2V4Dv8fRIQwqXGTlXL3L8Trsem4KYfy16bgxj6LTzKzILS3AEI2uTiq1VBfnQjBS9c/s1600/900x900px-LL-381225d4_IMG_2627.jpeg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<i>Superb isolation!</i></div>
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The slight flaw I mentioned would be the sensitivity/loudness on a given amp. They do require more power than most iems. I'd say they are fine even on iDevices, however, once you add eq and the necessary gain cuts, they can sometimes require maximum power on portable devices. I was listening to a song today on my Sansa Fuze at +6 (maximum) volume. Granted, it was a very quiet song, but I'd still prefer not to push something to the max and I'd like to have a bit of headroom left. However, I understand that damping is necessary for the er4s to achieve its quality, so I'm more than willing to accept the loss of volume to achieve the accuracy they have. Still, I've yet to "need" any amp with any device with my ER4S. But I could see it being desirable in certain situations.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVARByDWec70Ku9eGFk_h77cegTDMVZBGi1xCTDLGOd4wcAth_SNxjsSgeZAyXLhXco6HlURhJ1diQxDA26HvYRsJ27fhlY13tIFBKg_Tf7yVMXgwdaCxakQjAQeUH5OEhZFVglETfvxc/s1600/900x900px-LL-9f1ccc68_image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVARByDWec70Ku9eGFk_h77cegTDMVZBGi1xCTDLGOd4wcAth_SNxjsSgeZAyXLhXco6HlURhJ1diQxDA26HvYRsJ27fhlY13tIFBKg_Tf7yVMXgwdaCxakQjAQeUH5OEhZFVglETfvxc/s1600/900x900px-LL-9f1ccc68_image.jpeg" height="276" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>The ER4S with my JDS Labs C5 headphone amplifier</i></div>
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With the flaws mentioned, I still consider the ER4S to be very, very accurate overall, and I'd gladly recommend them to everyone with those caveats. I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to buy another pair at full price if I lost mine or something happened to them. And what "really" blows my mind is that Etymotic has been making these for how long? 10-20 years depending on the model!?!? That is impressive! All these fancy dancy new iems with their huge price tags, and I wouldn't even buy them over the ER4S if you told me they were 1/4 the price.<br />
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I guess you could say that makes me a happy customer. :-P Add to that the fact the Etymotic has awesome customer service, and you have a legendary iem in my opinion. Now I understand what people were talking about before I got into Etymotic. The irony of it all is that I originally tried the Etymotic HF5 (similar for factor and sound) and was so put off by the comfort and lack of bass as well as the highest treble, that I "almost" wrote off Etymotic completely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTh0BJecgiYvvfsYVs-gTDbae3XuO4aBMLcc6Z7_4ZrTUJ0ZfgcWf1Pak6uyQHRrNkhjSCFIBctgUhGtXNaLydYFICN1Sp0NGRCdRkY9iMjODp296brUvGG9x3aJzH6OjqsQdvb9r8X0Y/s1600/900x900px-LL-742f07ca_IMG_3111.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTh0BJecgiYvvfsYVs-gTDbae3XuO4aBMLcc6Z7_4ZrTUJ0ZfgcWf1Pak6uyQHRrNkhjSCFIBctgUhGtXNaLydYFICN1Sp0NGRCdRkY9iMjODp296brUvGG9x3aJzH6OjqsQdvb9r8X0Y/s1600/900x900px-LL-742f07ca_IMG_3111.jpeg" height="290" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>My ER4S next to a Sansa Fuze and Sansa Clip Zip</i></div>
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However, the more and more earphones I heard and compared with graphs, the more and more the ER4S looked so close to perfect on paper. The last straw was the PFE 112. I re-bought those darn iems three times. So sad. I originally found them a bit too light in the bass region, but overall they sounded so good. Then, after listening to 20+ iems, I realized how flat they actually were and bought them again. After more listening and reviews, I decided the PFE 232 must be amazing since they are an "upgrade" in price from the same makers of the PFE 112. I bought those and was somewhat impressed. The company had let me swap them with the PFE 112 I had originally bought from them. After a while though, I just couldn't get past the uneven, V-shaped frequency response, and I had to have the PFE 112 back. I could eq them well, but what was the point of using eq to make the PFE 232 sound closer to the PFE 112 for three times the cost? This started revealing to me how powerful eq could be. So I swapped the PFE 232 for the PFE 112 again. Third times a charm right? I still have the PFE 112 today and still love them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj42-qw4YF01FKuoG2BeP4NjqNRMq_z-6gQqKPCyY0sOFcJp3jNd1tVN16jmIyyh6Xw3s3lxevrCYbVwU8gWcm-1UMbVHg_LQMOMnv5cq6zfUK35pyIH9iKT-otSk_KjChroJQe4VOQSy4/s1600/900x900px-LL-b4cd8c4c_image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj42-qw4YF01FKuoG2BeP4NjqNRMq_z-6gQqKPCyY0sOFcJp3jNd1tVN16jmIyyh6Xw3s3lxevrCYbVwU8gWcm-1UMbVHg_LQMOMnv5cq6zfUK35pyIH9iKT-otSk_KjChroJQe4VOQSy4/s1600/900x900px-LL-b4cd8c4c_image.jpeg" height="296" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>My PFE 112, Sansa Fuze and JDS Labs C5 headphone amplifier</i></div>
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After a long time with my new favorite iem, I found that I was noticing the treble peaks on some music more than others, and I was starting to always want to use eq to fix it. Up to this point I had never wanted to touch eq. Primarily, because I wanted to use any device without needing to have an eq solution all the time. Which, realistically, the PFE 112 serve that purpose almost better than any other iem. However, after using eq and hearing how amazing they could sound, I saw the ER4S graphs. They looked very similar in overall smoothness and flatness to the PFE 112, except the ER4S treble was a lot smoother with no big spikes. The bass dropped off in the lowest regions, but it was smooth itself and didn't have any weird dips, just a smooth roll off. I just had to try Etymotic one more time to hear them. What if I never did? I'd always wonder. After debating because of the comfort issues with the HF5, I went for it.<br />
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At first, I wasn't sure if I had made the right choice. I was a little put off by the bass roll off, but the treble really was incredibly smooth. So smooth overall, in fact, that I almost returned them once, because of the bass and comfort, but I couldn't find it in me to let go of them because of how silky smooth they were. I decided to hold off and see how it went with the comfort and sound a little longer, after reading about the tips getting softer and sealing better. Whatever the reasons, they really did get better. Ultimately, I found that I was inserting them deeper and deeper every time, until finally I hit my brain matter one time.... kidding. But really, the deeper they got, the more and more I felt the bass wasn't really that rolled off. (still not flat, but not half as bad as when I first bought them).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27yRVk1z-xvSR_i4sh36_XWyPyB-3iCV7GfxF2_Wukg29nyzdvWkUPXk__6tFW3eX98MDP1aq4beJ9k1kEtz58cQOxE8Y4jERJGnQZjy0JoAjIEWoSTgebxuCGrqIeBiGk9ecSfPTRtg/s1600/900x900px-LL-13c12847_image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27yRVk1z-xvSR_i4sh36_XWyPyB-3iCV7GfxF2_Wukg29nyzdvWkUPXk__6tFW3eX98MDP1aq4beJ9k1kEtz58cQOxE8Y4jERJGnQZjy0JoAjIEWoSTgebxuCGrqIeBiGk9ecSfPTRtg/s1600/900x900px-LL-13c12847_image.jpeg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Where did they go?</i></div>
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So, I stuck with them, and I am "so" glad I did. I've come to value them above the PFE 112, which were my prize earphones. After listening and eq'ing them both, I "think" I started to hear that the PFE 112 has some harmonic distortion (shown in graphs) and this distortion was actually audible to some very, very small degree. I'd still take them over anything else, but the ER4S was even a step above these!<br />
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The more time I spent with the ER4S the happier I became. Not because of break-in or even "mind" break-in, but just because I got more comfortable with them, with the depth they need to be inserted to, and I started applying eq as well. Because the ER4S is so easy to eq by simply adding one single point of sub bass boost, I accepted that I could use them on any device. With no eq I could be happy, but if I "did" want eq in any given situation, almost any eq app in the world can do a single band of eq. And it's easy to adjust by ear to get the desired bass, since the roll off is so smooth and isolated to the lowest region. Unlike the pfe112 for instance, where, while it is easy to eq, you really need a graph to start with the right regions and go from there, and there are more noticeable peaks that you need to deal with. The ER4S eq is very simple in contrast.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHuQ8kS_eZ2JSGcGixI_Qu8H2BS2U9RiUVjQfWK6EuDsgIpcXGP3Ii1MoDqOC2rRjkpPGJMAbMQCN7f2vmS1ZmnU1H41QmO8IMVQSyPkJAePspJZg7djMANiYc3NOV6pLLPq4NmVsl8EY/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-29+at+11.44.19+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHuQ8kS_eZ2JSGcGixI_Qu8H2BS2U9RiUVjQfWK6EuDsgIpcXGP3Ii1MoDqOC2rRjkpPGJMAbMQCN7f2vmS1ZmnU1H41QmO8IMVQSyPkJAePspJZg7djMANiYc3NOV6pLLPq4NmVsl8EY/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-29+at+11.44.19+PM.png" height="300" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>My ER4S eq settings in bandwidth values</i></div>
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<i>(You can get 90% of the benefit of these settings with only the two bass eq bands)</i></div>
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The more I used eq, the more I started thinking that I really wanted to see what these things are capable of. So, I started tweaking the eq and comparing multiple graphs and doing listening comparisons to get the right fixes and flattest possible signature. I have compared them to both speakers and headphones, trying to see where I thought they lacked accuracy. The only problem is that they actually started making me hear where all of my other headphones and speakers lacked accuracy. Ha! The only pair that bests my ER4S is my Alesis studio monitor speakers. And those basically sound like the ER4S with more sub bass and a speaker-acoustic "sound".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6_4suT7m1p6ouuTClgC5GS6ZNkV4qPus4I8RFlXiOpSS6w053iftac0-j8L6qD-tIGceotiDVNALtVobrdf36leJSEBQ7F3s_ScAO8fTab_m4rGFuKjEdlWnDPECQgYXeVS4mYt-VY4c/s1600/900x900px-LL-3fab3670_IMG_4621.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6_4suT7m1p6ouuTClgC5GS6ZNkV4qPus4I8RFlXiOpSS6w053iftac0-j8L6qD-tIGceotiDVNALtVobrdf36leJSEBQ7F3s_ScAO8fTab_m4rGFuKjEdlWnDPECQgYXeVS4mYt-VY4c/s1600/900x900px-LL-3fab3670_IMG_4621.jpeg" height="206" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>My ER4S with small tips next to my Apogee interface and other devices</i></div>
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So, ultimately I just decided to see how good I could get the ER4S eq, and ended up with the eq I will post shortly. My goal was only to adjust the frequencies that were masking things no matter how small (hence some 1db adjustments). I didn't want any coloration, but rather just neutrality as much as possible. I really don't think an earphone could get any better to me personally. They sound like studio monitors in my ears now. The only improvement would be getting a more comfortable earphone that has this eq'd sound signature without needing eq and while having a bit more volume from a given source. But I'm still happy with them as they are. I have even considered starting a web site dedicated to them and all things related to them. Anyone think that would be a good idea? Leave me a comment and let me know.<br />
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I'll stop here as. If you read this far you must be patient and I award you a gold star! :-P Please let me know if you have an comments or questions. Check out my youtube channels and subscribe if you like them!<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/luisdent">www.youtube.com/user/luisdent</a> - Music<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/dentreviews">www.youtube.com/user/dentreviews</a> - Reviews (Some ER4S videos)</div>
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luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-72999210589794303462014-01-25T03:02:00.000-05:002014-01-25T03:02:31.481-05:00New fidelityforum.org audio forum coming soon!I've joined up with a friend to start an audio forum. Keep an eye on my blog and I'll give an update when it goes live. The forum will have audio topics such and earphone and headphone discussions as well as topics related to audio fidelity, etc.<br />
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http://fidelityforum.orgluisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-67254033282312571972014-01-25T02:54:00.003-05:002014-01-25T02:54:49.342-05:00New custom cable finished.I just completed a custom y-adapter cable for a friend. I used some neutrik connectors; a 3.5 TRS to two 1/4" TS. I used some paracord for the sleeve and a bit of heatshrink for the y-split. It came out very good and feels pretty solid.<br />
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The connections were soldered and wrapped electrical tape around the paracord in the center beneath the heatshrink to add a bit of stability to the y-split paracord junction and also some electrical tape around the paracord where the connectors crimp the wires. This gave it a nice snug crimp without being too forceful on the wires and allows some strain relief from the paracord being crimped and not just the cable.<br />
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Have a look. If you have any questions or comments please let me know below. :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJfL4Ut9KiBf40r9BmrnQ529ciWeJo6sYJV5I8ovgqBL_OjmY8Uql1jwqtOGL5G91S3sHjA_AVN_fR5svnL8cgTYGjnfXTwJijf-7cc_QvZHnpRd46A_dfmi1WAjMQxYRdbW39W5jsWM/s1600/IMG_5626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJfL4Ut9KiBf40r9BmrnQ529ciWeJo6sYJV5I8ovgqBL_OjmY8Uql1jwqtOGL5G91S3sHjA_AVN_fR5svnL8cgTYGjnfXTwJijf-7cc_QvZHnpRd46A_dfmi1WAjMQxYRdbW39W5jsWM/s1600/IMG_5626.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-17771375731015455282014-01-14T19:28:00.002-05:002014-01-14T19:30:07.637-05:00New video review posted: JDS Labs C5 Headphone Amplifier - In depth, 2 part reviewI've completed my in-depth review of the JDS Labs C5 headphone amplifier. Here is part one and now part two as well. This is a great `headphone amplifier, and you get to listen to me blab about it for 30 minutes! hehe ;)<br />
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Video Review Part 1<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnkYUf8hrQ&feature=youtu.be&hd=1"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-bKZdbz9LOQXqEuFw-mQ65rhH4izOXjlm6Wi7lH0uxlXpN_Xc07ALRhVy2D0koEhW4vhnzMteGUq90Fb52jlA8ipV3p7qr1EthDBIhNVQn49sHzJkLi3JFT4-aIvns0D_XpAgmQFL0pc/s320/1.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnkYUf8hrQ&feature=youtu.be&hd=1" style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnkYUf8hrQ&feature=youtu.be&hd=1</span></a><br />
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Video Review Part 2<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDpX2d5s274"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXtwFUZHHHQJH9ZZp0lyc1urWIMxNae5cnJfnjIXsxLQpkubnCGdScE-gWjVUqtz6Qq8tIv83guvBOUDpTbYQIwSECCihQdhNyoSaO64xGLfuHqcSIJBDGAX21T_VWaVy1-kggq5__Vg/s320/2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDpX2d5s274luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-86091507531392165512014-01-12T12:37:00.001-05:002014-01-12T12:38:48.571-05:00New video review - JDS Labs C5 Headphone Amplifier!I've just posted a new review of a great portable headphone amplifier, the C5 amp from JDS Labs. Part 2 coming soon. Check it out!<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnkYUf8hrQ&feature=youtu.be&hd=1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB7Sv-QrthxvMHB3h-L5nOrSLaFFQMet1PUB5c7YhvcWHYni5ShbfOkzdsiMZI6kZumkcUBZpF49fGLb0ga-5AtqKkRB0rXwj-Ilnx1eeUxELmLtIfDSwVPebTwmXDe2ZDpDIfIYA1if4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-12+at+12.36.20+PM.png" height="175" width="320" /></a><span id="goog_1054364900"></span><span id="goog_1054364901"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnkYUf8hrQ&feature=youtu.be&hd=1">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnkYUf8hrQ&feature=youtu.be&hd=1</a>luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8741826192194900665.post-22489510487565852042014-01-10T22:47:00.002-05:002014-01-10T22:52:57.576-05:00I've started making custom cables!I'm happy to have recently started making my own custom interconnect cables! Check it out. :)<br />
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Here is an earphone that I re-cabled. I replaced everything from the earphone housing and down:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX54TsXiIuzl5DqH8k7OvauE57hcKuGmO3Jd6823h0g2XCwn1I4WHkeYk6wGLUsRORIFvs8AQYTy1cXBs5F-NogcZlxsH_6kN02CBwTL0JH2B5jo5KYvLGE9szeka236uYouESlx-j-is/s1600/IMG_5367_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX54TsXiIuzl5DqH8k7OvauE57hcKuGmO3Jd6823h0g2XCwn1I4WHkeYk6wGLUsRORIFvs8AQYTy1cXBs5F-NogcZlxsH_6kN02CBwTL0JH2B5jo5KYvLGE9szeka236uYouESlx-j-is/s1600/IMG_5367_2.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the extension cable I made for the earphones (or anything I want extended):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4A8qiq9ZEesQZHrb6wrgjaOtVDuY3LTUCqHuYKbfAI4hE-XDfgb1xvl4-D741IOeuMWI6Z_Eaad2C3iYWBto3rJsj1O0S1o2Uka18S5yAff0A2yhKErBG4KfjBQDYLXOP6EEwU8oCoc4/s1600/IMG_5376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4A8qiq9ZEesQZHrb6wrgjaOtVDuY3LTUCqHuYKbfAI4hE-XDfgb1xvl4-D741IOeuMWI6Z_Eaad2C3iYWBto3rJsj1O0S1o2Uka18S5yAff0A2yhKErBG4KfjBQDYLXOP6EEwU8oCoc4/s1600/IMG_5376.jpg" height="313" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcYPsiwzUdBQWcLQLpqTjRtQLj1BWFIRH91i-a3Zzxc29vu765_cqEHNFyRAH4XpziXpKPpzuYF6R4v_vHljyPA8rNjedE0JAGa7EkugTFHu1hJWX9_yrWIlZ5m7o84q4CEjC4TGPcKA/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcYPsiwzUdBQWcLQLpqTjRtQLj1BWFIRH91i-a3Zzxc29vu765_cqEHNFyRAH4XpziXpKPpzuYF6R4v_vHljyPA8rNjedE0JAGa7EkugTFHu1hJWX9_yrWIlZ5m7o84q4CEjC4TGPcKA/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" height="242" width="320" /></a></div>
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And some short interconnect cables for my <a href="http://www.jdslabs.com/products/70/c5-headphone-amplifier/">JDS Labs C5 amplifier</a> as well as my custom AB switch I built using a C5 case. (connected to both inputs just for visual example):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIu6k8lwfsTcTGH2b0arKbFLKc1Lv18ASXbWyD8-AD0LlYoU2LtQmH2UEaGkgfhBLXsRFPN08bum7qTmjfxpgMtw7SezkfCQU50r8XTVMw59gbDJfhuNYxNjGpa7u3n62Aaf2uq1OfvvI/s1600/900x900px-LL-64661c72_image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIu6k8lwfsTcTGH2b0arKbFLKc1Lv18ASXbWyD8-AD0LlYoU2LtQmH2UEaGkgfhBLXsRFPN08bum7qTmjfxpgMtw7SezkfCQU50r8XTVMw59gbDJfhuNYxNjGpa7u3n62Aaf2uq1OfvvI/s1600/900x900px-LL-64661c72_image.jpeg" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOJ_SrHx58hk_2rb4pTsoolJ_T9E1X0lvfdreVmB2jbrQJ6YsQqbzaCpQ8l5julKubhC3uIwPczbagGqSs-AES-_7J1n0wO8GBzxl0hXDpwEXtx92jAJlUNIbQcN5bIBUMUKVy2vU4bI/s1600/900x900px-LL-d0d1e1ff_image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOJ_SrHx58hk_2rb4pTsoolJ_T9E1X0lvfdreVmB2jbrQJ6YsQqbzaCpQ8l5julKubhC3uIwPczbagGqSs-AES-_7J1n0wO8GBzxl0hXDpwEXtx92jAJlUNIbQcN5bIBUMUKVy2vU4bI/s1600/900x900px-LL-d0d1e1ff_image.jpeg" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTftF90kXr_YfrBmTASFDZZZx9wxI0D8VVlZwScjP6q4XukzbG2uodLphy3r6QzG_B8C_BXqI_2yej7sfja-X0y02M14zFfE7rY6EzwFIzPwPQRa4JXLzDK5iX6Dav4HZDGpua2D4ks3Y/s1600/900x900px-LL-fbf89ce1_image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTftF90kXr_YfrBmTASFDZZZx9wxI0D8VVlZwScjP6q4XukzbG2uodLphy3r6QzG_B8C_BXqI_2yej7sfja-X0y02M14zFfE7rY6EzwFIzPwPQRa4JXLzDK5iX6Dav4HZDGpua2D4ks3Y/s1600/900x900px-LL-fbf89ce1_image.jpeg" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
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I hope to make a tutorial on the earphone re-cable shortly. So keep an eye out. I also have a review of the <a href="http://www.jdslabs.com/products/70/c5-headphone-amplifier/">C5 amplifier</a> on my youtube review channel, and I'll be adding a more in depth review as well as a review of the new <a href="http://www.jdslabs.com/products/84/c5d-amplifier-dac/">JDS Labs C5D</a> soon. Stay posted. :) And thanks to John at JDS Labs for helping me find an awesome soldering iron!</div>
<br />luisdenthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04469981756701648981noreply@blogger.com0